What other hotel website has a moon calendar to help you time your stay? The northernmost wildlife park in the world is also one of its most exclusive—read: only for the happy few. With just a handful of annual stays available, this secluded lodge offers extreme privacy, nestled deep within the quiet Arctic woods of Northern Norway. Far from the ordinary, it’s a sanctuary where the untamed beauty of the Arctic meets luxurious comfort, creating an experience that is both intimate and extraordinary.
At the heart of this retreat is a unique opportunity to connect with Arctic wolves. Guided by a master animal guardian and seasoned keepers, guests are invited into the wolves’ domain for an up-close and transformative encounter. These majestic creatures, with their piercing eyes and quiet strength, offer an unparalleled window into the wild. It’s an experience that reshapes your understanding of nature and fosters a deep appreciation for the untamed.
The lodge itself features just three opulent suites, each designed for ultimate comfort and exclusivity. A private lounge with panoramic windows provides breathtaking views of the Arctic wilderness, making it a haven for reflection and connection. The safari-like rules add to the adventure—no one ventures out alone, ensuring safety while maintaining the sense of awe that defines the experience. Days are filled with exhilarating activities, including guided hikes through pristine landscapes, snowmobile rides over frozen lakes, and intimate moments spent with the wolves under expert supervision.
Guests can also learn about critical conservation efforts, gaining insight into the delicate balance of protecting these incredible animals. As night falls, the Arctic skies deliver a show like no other. In winter, the vivid colors of the Aurora Borealis light up the heavens, while in summer, the midnight sun casts an ethereal glow over the landscape. Each evening becomes a grand finale, a celebration of nature’s wonders.

Limited to just 15 all-inclusive stays per year, with a three-night minimum, this private retreat offers exclusive access to the wolves while directly supporting their care and conservation. It’s a rare and meaningful experience that allows you to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with the raw beauty of the Arctic. Book early—this unparalleled journey into the wild fills up fast!

This exclusive Arctic stay starts at approximately €80,000 for three nights.
Get in touch for more information.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post HOWLING IN THE WILD, AN ARCTIC WOLF EXPERIENCE first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Pack your bags (not more than 20 kg, please—and no need for Manolos or Gucci here), hop on a plane for a day, and embark on the trip of a lifetime. Your final destination is Botswana, where the lions roar louder, the safari camps are comfier, and the views are more breathtaking than you can imagine. The ultimate safari experience awaits you alongside Ralph Bousfield, a legendary safari guide whose life and legacy are deeply intertwined with the African continent.
A descendant of a family that settled in Africa in the 17th century, Ralph carries the knowledge and spirit of generations past. His father, Jack Bousfield, was a skilled tracker and hunter known for his bold exploits, including taking down over 50,000 crocodiles in his time. Today, Ralph channels this heritage into a deeply respectful and transformative approach to the land, its people, and its wildlife.
Stylish, rugged, and endlessly fascinating, Ralph is a natural storyteller, with tales as extraordinary as the places he explores. He bears the scars of his adventurous life, including a near-fatal snake attack and a bout of blood poisoning. Having survived nine plane crashes—a tragic history that includes the loss of his father—Ralph continues to fly across the continent in his vintage red bush plane, affectionately named A2 SAN after the San Bushmen. On one arm, he wears talismans and amulets gifted by shamans and tribesmen; on the other, a Rolex—a fitting balance of tradition and modernity that reflects his approach to safaris.
Ralph’s safaris aren’t about rushing across the savannah in a race to tick off the Big Five. Instead, they offer something far deeper: an immersive, holistic experience of Africa’s most pristine landscapes. The Okavango Delta, where Ralph spends much of his time, is one of the oldest and most untouched ecosystems in the world. Seventy percent of its surface is a labyrinth of waterways, swamplands, and shallow pools, fed by seasonal rains and runoff from Angola’s distant highlands. Here, nature thrives in delicate balance, and Ralph guides his guests with unparalleled expertise.
Ralph’s reputation as one of the world’s finest safari guides has made him the private guide of choice for royalty, former U.S. presidents, and Hollywood’s elite. His ability to curate intimate, unforgettable experiences in the African wilderness is unmatched, combining adventure with profound cultural and environmental understanding.

Get in touch to plan a bespoke journey into remote Botswana with Ralph Bousfield, using a Pilatus PC-12 and helicopters to access untouched wilderness. Guiding services for Mr. Bousfield start at €3,600 per day, with pricing based on itinerary details, including aircraft, camps, and trip duration.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post SAFARI WITH A LEGEND: BOTSWANA’S ULTIMATE ADVENTURE first appeared on Remote Experiences.

This is undoubtedly the most stunning horseback journey in Patagonia.
This seven-day journey starts at approximately €7,000.
Reach out to start planning your unforgettable Patagonian adventure.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post A GAUCHO ENCOUNTER: PATAGONIA ON HORSEBACK first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Nestled in the heart of Norway’s Sunnfjord region, this historic farmstead offers an exclusive escape where two pristine rivers meet. Established in 1885 and lovingly preserved through five generations of the Sørli family, the estate has been transformed into a haven of luxury and authenticity by its current stewards, Steinar Sørli and Yngve Brakstad. A seamless blend of traditional Norwegian country living and refined elegance, this secluded retreat promises a bespoke experience for discerning travelers.

Surrounded by lush meadows and dramatic peaks, the farmstead provides a serene backdrop for curated activities that showcase the region’s natural beauty and cultural richness. Guests can enjoy guided kayaking on tranquil rivers, explore charming local farms, or delve into the area’s heritage with cultural excursions. For the adventurous, glacier hiking, salmon fishing, and helicopter sightseeing offer exhilarating perspectives of Sunnfjord’s breathtaking landscapes.

Inside, the estate’s interiors are a masterpiece of timeless Norwegian heritage. Each room is uniquely decorated with original heirlooms and vibrant details, creating an atmosphere of rustic sophistication. Evenings are indulgent, with freshly prepared meals highlighting the finest local ingredients and the rich flavors of the fjords.

Available for exclusive buyout only, the property features 10 elegantly designed bedrooms spread across four historic buildings arranged around a secluded courtyard. Guests can unwind in cozy lounges with fireplaces, an outdoor hot tub, sauna, or sunny yoga studio, with optional in-room massages and beauty treatments for added indulgence. Ideal for families or private gatherings (groups of up to 20), this retreat offers an intimate and private setting to reconnect, recharge, and rediscover the finer things in life.

Pricing starts at approximately €54,000 for three nights (6 guests), including all food, beverages, and activities. Secure your unforgettable escape today and immerse yourself in the spellbinding charm of the Norwegian fjords.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post WHERE RIVERS MEET A LUXURIOUS RETREAT first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Is the fate of many unique, virtually abandoned villages in the unknown corner of Abruzzo sealed? Not if Swedish-Italian millionaire Daniele Kihlgren can help it. In 1999, a solitary motorbike trip proved to be a revelation for this modern-day idealist. By chance, he stumbled upon the almost-deserted hilltop village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio in the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park in the Apennines. He was struck speechless, not only by the outstanding beauty of the setting, but also because almost everything was untouched. “Time seemed to have stood perfectly still – no concrete buildings, no factories, no tourist infrastructure like the Swiss chalets you find in so many Abruzzese towns,” says Kihlgren. It wasn’t long before he returned to Santo Stefano – not only with his motorbike, but also with a plan to save this village from extinction. Kihlgren, in his mid-forties, has been described as a maverick, a millionaire with enormous willpower. And where there’s a will, there’s a way. Kihlgren bought a house in Santo Stefano and soon many more. Next step was signing a deal with the local authorities to leave Santo Stefano in its original condition – in other words, an embargo on building new houses and a ban on the use of concrete. In exchange, Kihlgren would spend a substantial sum, up to €4.5 million – a mix of his own and borrowed money – on breathing new life into the village and giving it a second chance. “This has nothing to do with renovation,” Kihlgren insists. “It’s about restoration – restoring honour. I had a unique opportunity to save one of the last authentic places in Italy from the grip of cement.” In 2004, five years after Kihlgren first wandered through Santo Stefano, the village was ready for its second life. Kihlgren received help from some big names, including the renowned British architect David Chipperfield, who also supports the concept of ‘conservative restoration’, or restoring while maintaining original features.The result of the first project here in Santo Stefano di Sessanio is Sextantio Albergo Diffuso. A fairly recent concept in the hotel business, an albergo diffuso is a ‘hotel’ scattered throughout a town in different houses. Guests are assimilated into the village and feel part of the community. Kihlgren’s Sextantio originally had 32 houses, but some have been sold to foreigners. Buying a completely restored house from Kihlgren costs about €1200 to €1500 (from $1470) per square metres. The rest serve as hotel rooms with a central reception area, hotel manager and staff.The rooms usually come with a kitchenette, a table and chairs, a fireplace – Spartan luxury. “We try to retain everything that refers back to village life,” says Kihlgren. “Only local materials are used, and old furniture and artefacts were sourced in the area. Modern technology, such as under-floor heating and light switches, is discreetly hidden. We also conducted research with the National Museum of Abruzzo and talked to the elderly residents of Santo Stefano to discover how people used to live and what materials they used. Even beter, after a couple of days staying here, you feel connected with the place. Probably just how Kihlgren felt the moment he decided to save a part of Italian heritage.

How to get there

Santo Stefano di Sessanio is 150 kilometres (a 1.5-hour drive) from Rome and 100 kilometres from the Adriatic coast and the city of Pescara. The best way to explore the region is by car. Sextantio Albergo Diffuso has 27 rooms dotted throughout several buildings, ranging from double rooms to suites, which are twice as large.
A Classic Room with breakfast for two starts at a bargain €160 ($196) per night in low season. While the setting is perfect, there’s definitely room for improvement on the hospitality side.

WWW.SEXTANTIO.IT/SANTO-STEFANO/

The post SAVING SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Meet the M/Y Legend, the world’s first mega yacht built to venture into the globe’s coldest, farthest-flung corners. With her 77 meters and gadgets like a mini-submarine, snow scooters, and a Eurocopter, she’s the ultimate way to explore waters that are tricky to reach even with expedition ships. During an endless, soft pink summer night when the sun never sets, with a view of Mount Français, the highest mountain in the Antarctic Peninsula, and a group of killer whales in the distance, I raise my glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc to being here in one of the most hard to reach regions on the planet. I am aboard M/Y Legend, the first boutique icebreaker in the world. She’s now gracefully bobbing around in Antarctica and she feels completely in her element. Legend looks like an elegant and classic super yacht. Sleek, dark, brand new teak decks plus a commercial helipad and a hidden room where a mini submarine for three passengers, jet skis, snowmobiles and other water toys are stored. It feels great to be back in Antarctica. I was here twice before, but only ever aboard larger expedition ships, once with 65 passengers and once with almost 200 guests. This time it’s different. We are a select group of 20 odd guests and the best part is, we just skipped the vicious Drake Passage by flying from Chilean Punta Arenas to King George Island in Antarctica where Legend was waiting for us in the bay. What could be better than flying to Antarctica in 2,5 hours, no Drake Passage, saving four boring sea days and experiencing the highlights of the White Continent in ten days aboard a private ex-Russian icebreaker?

The M/Y Legend was originally built in Holland in 1974 as a Class 1 icebreaker for use in the Baltic Sea during the Cold War. Dutch yacht owner Jan Verkerk bought her in 2013 and with two other investors, he wanted to add something completely new to the existing expedition cruise market. Following a two-year revamp at the Dutch Icon Yachts shipyard she’s been transformed into a floating boutique icebreaker for 22 passengers along with a Balinese spa, a giant heated outdoor Jacuzzi with a built-in rain curtain, a gym with a view, a panoramic salon with a piano, and a mini-cinema for cozy evenings after long days in the cold. My favorite spot is at the bar, not because Mitch, the Dutch bartender, can do magic in the cocktail department, but because my seat is a prime spot to watch the ocean and the White Continent floating by. Like today for example, while having a steaming cup of Rooibos tea I see a Humpback whale playing around in the icy waters of the Antarctic Peninsula. When more whales join in, the captain and onboard expedition team decide to lower one of the tenders to see the action up close and personal. Being able to stop whenever we want, while respecting the rules that apply here in the protected waters of Antarctica, is just great. It goes without saying that the weather is variable. The experienced expedition team—which includes a trip leader, biologist, an Antarctica expert, and an ice pilot—set the course for each day based on current conditions and guests’ personal interests.It’s clear that Legend can do much more than any other ice strengthened super yacht. Sailing through the iceberg-dotted Lemaire Channel? No problem. Checking out the glacial Wedell Sea? It’s possible, thanks to the M/Y Legend’s relatively small capacity. Most other expedition cruise ships exceed the strict passenger limits set by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, which regulates where groups can go. In other words: we have more access to penguin colonies and scientific stations than almost anyone else. The expedition team tries to get us on land as much as possible. Late one afternoon, the Legend nestles into a thick patch of ice in a remote bay. There’s no wind, the water is like a silver platter with the only ripples formed by minke whales feeding under the ice sheet and seals playing around the floe edge. “Let’s set foot on land, or rather, on the ice!” says Tom, the cruise director. After a brisk hike on the frozen sea to spend some time with some sleepy seals, the crew builds a giant natural bar made out of snow and stocked with all kinds of bottles and drinks.“Who wants champagne or a Jägermeister to warm up?” asks Tom. I sip a glass of rosé, thinking how insane this setting is: next to us is Legend, firmly locked with her bow in the ice, and behind us the towering mountains of Antarctica. The sky changes color every minute, now and then we hear the sound of small avalanches and the so recognizable blow of a whale in the distance. “Magical!” we tell each other. “Let’s have another drink to heat up our cold toes!”

There’s another favorite spot on the Legend where I like to sit. It’s not in the oversized jacuzzi with its waterfall on the stern of the ship, and it’s also not on the helipad where for now a bunch of lounge chairs are placed. It’s the outdoor deck just outside the lounge with grand piano and gas fireplace. The small deck is fitted with an open-air kitchen, grill and teppanyaki station where the night before we had a fabulous outdoor BBQ. I sit here a lot, on beautiful, wooden deck chairs, while enjoying the sun (watch out for sunburn!), gazing over the water dotted with gigantic icebergs. I could sit here for hours and hours, taking in this intoxicating polar landscape. Sometimes giant pieces of ice float by with leopard seals basking in the sun. When Legend’s waves hit their piece of ice, they barely move, too lazy to be afraid. After a whole day of being outside, spending hours in the invigorating Antarctic air, there’s nothing better than retreating to my cozy cabin. Each of Legend’s staterooms is named after a city. New York is sleek and modern while my Tokyo stateroom has ruby red ceramic tiles adorned with cherry blossom patterns. The master suite, with a his and hers bathroom, is located on the bow of the ship and has portholes on both sides. The décor of some suites hark back to the time of the great explorers. How brave Shackleton and Scott were and how they probably never, even in their wildest dreams, could have imagined sailing to remote and far-flung polar regions aboard a luxury icebreaker like Legend. I’ll raise a glass to them tonight while sitting on my favorite bar stool, sipping a pisco sour and hopefully watching a school of playful whales in the ocean. A toast to old explorers and cruising in pure style through the most remote region in the world.

Legend is available for charter from 625.000 per week, including 19 staffers and up to 10 expedition crew (excluding helicopter, submarine, fuel and f&b).
Get in touch for more information.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post BREAK THE ICE ON A MILLIONAIRE SUPER YACHT first appeared on Remote Experiences.

THE VERDICT Lapland is still amazing. It is so easy to travel from any city in Europe up here but yet you feel in another world. Last time we were in Finnish Lapland around Ivalo and it was much more busy and touristy then during this second trip in Swedish Lapland. During this weeklong stay, we were practically alone in this vast and quiet area. It’s exactly this feeling of solitude you really need when traveling up North.

HOW TO GO We travelled with Xplore the North to Swedish Lapland. They offer intense and extreme expeditions to Spitsbergen and to shortbreaks in Lapland for the whole family. A midweek starts from 595 euro, without flight. We flew to Kiruna in Sweden with SAS from Brussels, making a stop-over in Stockholm. SAS is a member of Star Alliance and connects easily with other airlines flying in from the States or Asia.

WWW.XPLORETHENORTH.COM
WWW.FLYSAS.COM

WHAT TO PACK 1.Start with warm merino woollen underwear: the New Zealand brand Icebreaker is the best when it comes to the warmest and most comfortable underwear and socks that are essential for these freezing temperatures. An Icebreaker baklava, a cap that covers the entire face except the eyes, will prevent freezing cheeks and tip of the nose. 2. Perfect for these climates is the Patagonia Down Sweater, made from Primaloft, a synthetic microfiber that replaces regular down feathers. This super insulating material was made during the 1980 for the U.S. Army and is designed to be as light as a feather. 3. An absolute necessity is a vest and pants of the brand Canada Goose. This is the favourite brand of people living in these cold parts of the world. 4. Cold feet are a disaster in Arctic regions. Invest in good boots that can handle the lowest temperatures. Our favourite type is Baffin Footwear, an outdoor brand from the far north of Canada. Especially the model Impact can resist temperatures down to -100 degrees Celsius for both ladies and gentlemen.5. Buy also some hand warmers that start glowing when needed plus a headlamp with LED lighting from the brand Petzl. Petzl crampons are also useful when
walking on the ice.

WWW.ICEBREAKER.COM
WWW.PATAGONIA.COM
WWW.CANADA-GOOSE.COM
WWW.BAFFIN.COM
WWW.PETZL.COM

The post A DATE WITH A HUSKY first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Step with an open mind into one of the most closed and unknown countries in the world. North Korea is not only wonderfully interesting, but also surprisingly accessible. In 2013, the curious traveller who wants to experience one of the last Communist dynasties should book a ticket to Pyongyang, the capital of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) aka North Korea. Exclusive travel is an understatement here because less than 5000 western tourists visit this little known Asian country annually. If you are the kind of traveller who likes to come home with original stories and photos that nobody else could have taken then put this destination high on your hotlist. We answer five questions on how to do it.

1.How do you get to North Korea?

Probably the most surprising thing about visiting North Korea is that anyone can do it (even American Traveler’s). Traveling there is neither complicated nor dangerous and it’s even relatively affordable. Just book a trip with the English, Beijing-based tour operator Koryo Tours, which has been taking curious tourists to North Korea for more than fifteen years. In 2012  Koryo Tours took around 2,500-plus tourists to DPRK of which a third were Americans. Koryo Tours arranges your visa, books your flight or train from Beijing to Pyongyang and also makes sure that you discover this country in a fascinating way. It starts with a 1,5 hour flight from Beijing to Pyongyang in a Tupolev aircraft of Air Koryo, the national airline. A vintage chic first class, beautiful stewardesses wearing white gloves and red lipstick, a meal that rivals many American carriers and the Pyongyang Times, a North Korean newspaper translated into English. If your flight is at night (which is highly unlikely) the views are spectacular: the Yalu River that separates China from North Korea, on the Chinese side, brightly lit and bustling and on the North Korean side, complete darkness. Onboard there are mainly visitors and tourists but also some North Koreans who are easily identifiable by the de rigueur badge of the Great Leader they wear. The same Kim Il Sung observes the Tupolev as it lands at Pyongyang’s international airport. The group of international tourists know in advance what to expect, thanks to a briefing in Beijing the previous day. Laptops, cameras, lenses, video cameras are all allowed. In 2009 we still had to hand-in our cell phone at the airport, but nowadays you can take your phone inside the country and buy a local sim card too from which you can make and receive international phone calls. There are internet connections in most big hotels since 2008, plus the western guides have internet on their smart phones.
Our British guide Hannah Barraclough from Koryo Tours shares her adventures via InstaGram, live from North Korea.

WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/HANNAYKORYO

2.Are you free during a trip to North Korea?

Yes and no. Exploring alone is a no-no. Either you book an individual trip to North Korea and have two local guides and a driver in a stylish vintage Mercedes assigned to you, or you go in an international group. In the case of the latter, two local guides, a Western guide and a driver also accompany you. Requests can be made but because the program is so tightly organized you are kind of restricted as a tourist. In other words, you get to see the North Korea that the government wants you to see. This in itself is already fascinating. Of course there are limitations. It is strictly forbidden to take photographs of military installations (but isn’t this the case in any country?), such as the border with South Korea. Bowing to statues of the Great Leader is requisite. But however well orchestrated the trip tries to be (which is equally true of many Western packages where the tourist only sees and experiences the things the tour operator shows them) you still get a glimpse of the real North Korea. In the capital, Pyongyang, with its empty streets (only the happy few drive cars) stunningly dolled up girls in blue and white uniforms, work the middle of intersections. Between the official visits to museums, monuments and mausoleums, you get a remarkable insight into the daily life of the North Korean. On August 15, Liberation Day, everyone sits in the park. There is picnicking, dancing, singing, playing… Families sit on the grass beneath the trees and most ladies wear sumptuous dresses. It’s a good moment to sit down with the locals and have a great and relaxing time.

3.What’s on the program?

A week in North Korea is a mixture of visits, tastes and experiences. From going bowling in a very rigid, Communist looking bowling alley (balls made in USA), and a ride on the Pyongyang subway, to visiting a school library and a local music school where accordion, piano and guitar are taught with collective zeal. The male members of the group have already been told to pack a tie for the visit to the mausoleum of Kim Il Sung. Also included in the excursion package is a visit to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) between North and South Korea. On the way there, you pass several border controls on a motorway where almost no cars drive. As a tourist you can stand close to the actual and fragile line between the two foes. A photo of the blue sentry box and resident guard with South Korea just five meters away, serves as a souvenir. Less official is the beautiful North Korean landscape, to be enjoyed from your window on the many bus trips: green paddy fields, abundant space and the occasional farm or village. One of these visits takes us to the North Korean coast, heavily guarded by the military. You immediately notice Japan looming across the water on the other side. Despite this detail, a relaxing gourmet lunch follows at a small restaurant on the beach with freshly grilled fish, duck and seafood.

4.Is visiting North Korea something for everyone?

Some tourists may wonder whether travelling to a country like North Korea is ethically correct. No doubt, everyone decides for himself or herself but the same equally applies to other countries that are not 100% politically correct or corruption free. Tourism is a source of income for the North Koreans. Another important aspect of tourism is the interaction between the foreigner and the North Korean. At least the visitor gets to see the inhabitant as he really is and vice versa. Travelling to the DPRK raises a corner of the veil for both sides. Perhaps this interaction will pave the way for more freedom and peace for everybody. All you need as a tourist (apart from a chic tie) is an open mind and the belief that something human lies behind a country like North Korea, despite negative reporting in the West. Discovering one of the most secretive countries in the world does have its own strange aspects and rules. As a true and seasoned traveller you now have everything in perspective.

5.Are the Mass Games really so spectacular?

Yes, yes and yes! There are only a few words to describe an event of this size and impact. This is DPRK’s main attraction and quite simply the most amazing thing you will ever see! Mass Games can basically be described as a synchronized socialist-realist spectacular, featuring over 100,000 participants in a 90 minute display of gymnastics & dance, accompanied by music, all wrapped in a highly politicized package. Literally no other place on Earth has anything comparable and it has to be seen with your own two eyes to truly appreciate the scale on display. The Arirang or Mass Games run weekly each year from July/August and continue until mid September. 80.000 dancers and gymnasts train throughout the year to perform for their compatriots and especially for their leader. The backdrop is made by over 20,000 cardholders who sit in the audience and make patterns appear through the synchronized turning of colored cards. As a tourist, attending and taking photos of these events is absolutely no problem. Prices for an evening range from 130 dollar for third class seats to 450 dollar for VIP seats. Want to see yourself?
Check out the “I want more” video from the music band Faithless, filming made possible by Koryo Tours.

THE VERDICT We totally loved traveling to North Korea with Koryo Tours. It was one of the most surprising trips we ever did in last years. From the interesting group of travellers we met during the trip to singing karaoke and socializing with the locals while having a drink and rolling a cigarette together. The highlight? The Mass Games, a mind-blowing event (we went two times) that can only be witnessed here in the DPRK. If we would go back to North Korea? Yes, in a flash.

HOW TO GO The British travel company Koryo Tours organizes excellent! trips into the DPRK out of Beijing. Trips can be made in a group or individually, according to your own budget and wishes. For travellers with less time, you can book a Mass Game Break that lets you witness the Mass Games and discover Pyongyang in a couple of days. Departure is always out of Beijing and depending on the type of trip you have booked this is either by flight or by train. Flying is with Air Koryo, which has 3 flights a week to Beijing. The flight only takes 1,5 hours in a comfortable airplane in economy and business class configuration.

WWW.KORYOGROUP.COM

WHERE DO YOU STAY Lodging in the DPRK is very straightforward. In Pyongyang we stayed in the super cool 47-storey Yanggakdo Hotel. It is a western 3 star (Chinese 4 star) equivalent and equipped with a revolving restaurant on the top floor, bars, shops, swimming pool, bowling, casino, and other entertainment facilities such as Karaoke. The hotel has reliable electricity, heating, air conditioning, hot water with even foreign TV channels including BBC World and Japanese and Chinese TV, and internet access is available. In a small café beside the hotel, bottled beer is served at 0,40 euro a throw.

VISA & MONEY A visa for North Korea is easily obtained with the help of Koryo Tours. They will apply the visum for you, so there is no need to organize it yourself. The official exchange currency in DPRK is now Euros (USD were taken out of circulation in 2003). We recommend you bring Euros however Chinese Yuan, USD, and Japanese Yen can be used in most cases. It is best to bring small bills/coins as change can be a problem. Travellers’ cheques are impossible to cash in the DPRK. The official currency, the DPRK Won is now valued at roughly 170 won to 1 Euro. It may be possible to get hold of real DPRK money in the hotel but this is for a souvenir only and cannot be used to purchase goods. The best currency to use when buying goods remains the Euro but keep in mind that all goods sold to visitors are rather expensive.Tipping is appreciated in North Korea. For example 5 euro per day for the guide is a good amount. In restaurants or bars, it is at your own discretion if you want to tip the waitresses or not.

CLIMATE We highly recommend to go during the summer months, when the Mass Games take place. Summer however is fairly hot and humid during the day and cooler at night.

The post NORTH KOREA INSIDE OUT first appeared on Remote Experiences.

In dreamy Montana, heaven knows no end. This quiet corner of America’s Northwest is the territory of America’s last, genuine cowboys. Montana is also famous for its Big Sky, endless and ever changing. The best way to experience this state is to stay in comfortable guest ranches like Triple Creek Ranch, owned by Craig Barrett, the former CEO of the American IT company Intel. He bought Triple Creek Ranch, a cattle farm of 10 hectares, a while ago and has a clear and correct vision what hospitality is all about.In a place like Triple Creek it’s difficult to say whom the wrangler, or the cowboy, the billionaire, the Hollywood celebrity or the cowgirl is. During the day everyone wears the same uniform: a worn jeans, weathered leather boots, a chequered shirt, maybe a leather jacket and of course the obligatory cowboy hat.No matter what background, income or age, everyone is here

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for the same reason: the charm of Montana. After a day in the saddle, guests and aspirant cowboys can relax at the ranch. Owner Craig Barrett is often here too, staying at his massive log villa where he treats all guests to an appetitive and a peek into his house. The fireplace looks like it can digestive complete trees and the huge beds can probably accommodate a dozen of sleepy cowboys. Chalets with names like Sapphire have luxuries in the form of a private hot tub on the terrace, a fireplace, and your own golf caddy to explore the domain. We like the privacy approach of the Ranch. Triple Creek provides breakfast, lunch and dinner in the chalets, if you wish. An apero before dinner? No problem, serve yourself from your own minibar with huge bottles of all kinds of drinks, with compliments of the house.[/wpcol_1half_end]

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On our way the our second lodge we had a stopover in the town of Hamilton where during a high school rodeo cowboys and cowgirls from across Montana compete with each other. We witnessed some spectacular exercises of horsemanship. Cowgirls manoeuvring their athletic horses around barrels, trying to be the quickest to catch a goat and tie it up. Viewers with a soft heart for animals, might [/wpcol_1half] [wpcol_1half_end id=”” class=”” style=””]

want to look away. The cowboys, some barely twelve years old, venturing into the arena on the backs of snorting bulls, they throw lassos around horses and act as it is all simple tricks. Yihaa! If you want to attend a major rodeo event in Montana, head to the Nile stock & rodeo show, held every year in October at the MetraPark in Billings, Montana.[/wpcol_1half_end]

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Another Ranch deluxe for wealthy would-be cowboys is The Ranch At Rock Creek, near the charming town of Missoula. The in-house wranglers look like they’re straight out of a John Wayne movie: dusty, with olive-skinned faces, dressed in the typical outfit, leather gloves and boots included.  Here you can get up very early in the morning for several hours of horseback riding, in the afternoon do some fly fishing or clay pigeon shooting and in the evening drink with some mates glasses of whiskey. The hotel may be new, the ranch is more than 120 years old and is completely sealed from the outside world. [/wpcol_1half] [wpcol_1half_end id=”” class=”” style=””]

There is the main building with some rooms, a bar, the restaurant, a shop and even a bowling alley. But if you’re smart, you stay in one of the older buildings on the other side of the river. Our favourite is the Wrangler, a cosy room, completely out of wood and hidden in an old shed dating from the 19th century. Just next door you can see the real action of the wranglers managing the cattle. There’s no better place than sitting on the balcony of your cottage and watching the Montana way of living with in the background the Big Sky of this unforgettable region.[/wpcol_1half_end]

THE VERDICT

We were charmed by the stunning beauty of Montana. After a road trip of more than 5000 km through America’s Nordwest, we couldn’t think of a better state to end our voyage. Surely, Montana is great in any season, but we are fan of September and October. Think about Indian Summer and autumn colors……
And try to combine your trip with a major rodeo event.
Our  favorite lodge is Triple Creek Ranch.

HOW TO GO

Fly to Missoula and rent a car.
We opted for a Chevrolet Trailblazer SUV, available as of 333 euro with first tank of fuel and all extra insurances and extras included.

WWW.SUNNYCARS.COM 

WHERE TO STAY

Triple Creek Ranch:  from approximately 530 euro for 2 persons per night. (OUR FAVORITE)
All meals, all drinks and aperitifs, on ranch trail rides and other activities included.
The Ranch at Rock Creek: from approximately 1280 euro for 2 persons per night in an all-inclusive package.
All meals, all drinks and aperitifs, on ranch trail rides and other activities included.
Our favorite room is the Wrangler. We don’t recommend the rooms in the main building.

WWW.TRIPLECREEKRANCH.COM
WWW.THERANCHATROCKCREEK.COM
WWW.VISITMT.COM

The post ME AND MY MONTANA first appeared on Remote Experiences.

On the skis in the morning, in the afternoon some serious shopping and when evening comes, relaxing with a Spritz or Hugo in a cosmopolitan bar. Why stay in a boring and artificial resort if you can be in Innsbruck, the urban ski mekka of the European Alps? Every visit to Innsbruck really should start (and end) in the 360° bar. Order one of the favourite cocktails of this region, the Italian Venetziano (aka Spritz) made with Aperol and prosecco and enjoy the view over the city surrounded by snowy mountaintops.

The name of the bar says it all: it’s a warm glass cocoon on the 7th floor of the Rathaus Galerien, a shopping and office complex in the centre, build by architect Dominique Perrault. From the bar, and the adjacent restaurant, where you can take an inexpensive lunch, you get a grip on the city. The traffic-free Old Town is right at your feet, you get a perfect idea of the mountains surrounding Innsbruck. The old city is a maze of small streets and squares, archways and stately mansions. Innsbruck also has a thing for bling bling. It is not only home to the world famous Swarovski Crystal but the symbol of the city, the Golden Roof, is a Gothic alcove from the 15th century which is completely covered in 3450 gold leaf-covered copper plates.

The old town is as Tyrolean as it can be. Shops selling classic clothing and accessories in green felt, traditional hunter outfits, thick woollen hats with Tyrolean print and of course Café Sacher, where you have to go for a Sacher coffee while being surrounded by regulars who seem to be part of the decor. Near the Old Town is the pedestrian shopping street, the Maria-Theresien-Straße, a string of shops and eateries. Architect David Chipperfield was responsible for the design of the Kaufhaus, a new shopping center which is perfect for on a cold or snowy day when you want to escape the sub-zero temperatures. It’s interesting to see how Innsbruck works together with international architects. Take for example the Congress, just outside the historic city.

The famous architect and Pritzker Prize winner Zaha Hadid designed the amorphous lit glass structures of the four ski lift stations of the Nordkettenbahn. This Nordkettenbahn is over 100 years old and connects the city with the Alpine village Hungerberg. With the Nordkettenbahn you zip in twenty minutes to 1900 meters altitude and trade the urban vibe for the absolute silence of the Alps.

The post INNSBRUCK URBAN SKIING IN TIROL first appeared on Remote Experiences.

I am wearing three pairs of socks, two thermals, three shirts, a sweater and an expedition jacket, but I am still freezing. The arctic wind slashes against my face as we ride east on qamutiks, or komatiks, authentic Inuit wooden sledges pulled by snow scooters, to base camp. For five hours our small group swishes over the frozen ice of Eclipse Sound and along the shores of the majestic Sirmilik National Park, part of Baffin Island. I am burring my head deep into the warmth of my fluffy but colossal parka, hiding from the icy wind. Visions of tropical islands pop up into my mind. Did I make the right decision of traveling to this very remote Artic part of the world? But then we reach the ice of the floe edge. Arriving here is a breath taking moment, not just because the cold, Arctic air makes my lungs tingle, but because I am standing before a dazzling white desert of icy sea with only several dramatic icebergs in the distance. The only colors are the deep blue sky and some yellow forms in the distance. The qamutiks skate closer and those small, yellow dots grow into a dozen of tents: my otherworldly home for the next five days.
I am in Arctic Canada where a frozen sea awaits me together with a comfy base camp. It’s better not to venture into this unknown wild alone. The best is to book a trip with the bespoke travel company Arctic Kingdom. They bring individual travellers like me from all over the world to this remote location where the frozen floe edge meets the cold, wide Atlantic. Point of meeting is Pond Inlet, a small hamlet in Nunavut, located on the northeastern shores of Baffin Island, 72°North. It took me three flights and almost 10 hours from Ottawa to get here. Canadian North, one of two carriers flying to these remote corners of the world, services Pond Inlet each day with small, propeller airplanes.
Pond Inlet has just over 1000 inhabitants, mostly Inuit and a mix of “Southerners” living and working here. It is a tiny, somewhat peculiar community with a couple of small hotels, no restaurants, two shops and no bars because Pond Inlet is dry: alcohol is forbidden, alas for me, even for visitors. The snow that covers this hamlet during a very long and dark winter starts to melt around the end of May. Arctic Kingdom has set up our base camp on the ice, some 70 kilometres away from town. They looked for the perfect spot: next to the bird sanctuary of Bylot Island and close to two grandiose icebergs frozen in the landscape.
At the floe edge guide Mike drops a hydrophone into the icy water so that we can hear the outlandish sonar sounds below the surface. I am detecting Star Trek-like echoes and noises from bearded seals and whales while I am gazing across immense swathes of frozen Atlantic. There is something immensely calming and soothing about it. “You know, it is a virus. When you have it, once you’re bitten, it draws you back to the (Ant)Arctic. I call it the Polar virus,” says Mr Heiner Kubny from Switzerland who has travelled more than 50 times to Antarctica and into the polar regions of Russia, Canada and Svalbard. Mr. Heiner is sitting extremely relaxed next to me at the border of the floe edge while enjoying the views and snapping away with his huge camera.
During the summer months, the air temperature in the Arctic swings between just below zero and five degrees, depending on the wind chill. Greyish, cold weather with snow in the air and feisty winds that rattle my tent at night quickly changes into tranquil skies and a spooky mist covering the top of the giant tabular iceberg in the distance. A couple of hours later, bright sunshine makes the otherwise much appreciated Canada Goose jackets superfluous. It only takes me a couple of days to adopt the Arctic summer look: a deep tan with the mandatory sunglasses print burned into my face.
We embark on a walk beside a majestic iceberg in the footsteps of a huge polar bear. The guide measures the size of the animal by its tracks. “I think it’s a female, but a big one.” We explore the wide area around base camp on sledges while stopping now and again to admire the views, test the telephoto lenses or to warm ourselves with some hot coffee and tea. For a “top of the world” sensation, Mike suggests we climb a pinnacle shaped iceberg. “This might be your only chance to stand on a berg that is thousands of years old,” he smiles. But then the floe edge calls again where some narwhals have been spotted. Unfortunately, the brown silhouettes with their legendary ivory tusks disappear quickly in the still ocean and nobody is fast enough to snap a picture. The females come to check the floe edge first, to see if it’s already possible to swim through cracks in the ice to feed during the summer months in the rich waters off the Baffin Island fjords.
On my last day in this frozen world, the sky is covered in eerie black clouds; the air is cold and the top layer of ice looks and sounds like the crust of crème brûlée. Back on the floe edge, Mike entertains us by trying to attract whales while making wide arm gestures. “Oh rise up, mighty Leviathans! Rise up!” he calls. Then it happens. Whether by sheer good luck or Mike’s pleas, we get very up close and personal with a giant bowhead whale. The animal is feeding just below the pack ice, right next to the edge where we are standing. Every ten minutes it sticks its massive head above water to gasp some air, while looking at us inquisitively. We hear its loud breathing and smell its fishy breath. Everybody is awestruck and deadly silent. “Amazing! Any closer than this and it will be lying next to me in my tent,” jokes Mr Babis Bizas from Greece, a passionate traveller who has been to every country is the world, twice. “This makes my Arctic trip completely worthwhile.”

Discover more
Checkout our videos and daily blog posts of this trip

Our verdict
Baffin Island is by far the best spot in the world to witness these rare animals, but the narwhal migration varies every year, so it all depends on Mother Nature. The best time to go, is mid June. For polar bear viewing there are much better options then this part of the world. Arctic Kingdom is a well-established company and accustomed to taking travellers to this far-flung destination in the world. The Base Camp infrastructure was simply outstanding, but food could be better. However working in these remote parts of the world isn’t that easy.  Think of almost impossible logistics and very social complexities with Inuit communities. So be prepared to be flexible.

WWW.ARCTICKINGDOM.COM

How to get there
Air Canada offers great Holiday Packages for if you want to discover more of Canada.
From Ottawa to Pond Inlet we flew with Canadian North. Half of the planes flying from Ottawa to Iqaluit are filled with cargo in the front and passengers in the back. It’s a quaint way of travelling and leaving the real world behind to end up in a remote hamlet far above the Arctic Circle. Generally it’s around 2-3 short flights from Ottawa to Pond Inlet. Flying in the Arctic is unpredictable, so it’s wise to leave at least one day of margin with your international flight!
If you fly from Ottawa to Toronto, Porter Airlines is the way to go. The Toronto based boutique airlines that works closely together with Winkreative, the brand and strategy company of Tyler Brulee, better known from Monocle, one of our clients. We loved the all-business class approach with a lounge for everybody at Bishop Airport and the sleek Bombardier Jet flying us.

WWW.AIRCANADAVACATIONS.COM

WWW.CANADIANNORTH.COM
WWW.FLYPORTER.COM

The post SAFARI IN THE POLAR DESERT first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Bet that Shackleton and Amundsen would never have dreamed of this. Fly the Drake and cruise Antarctica. Yes you heard it right, skip the feared Drake Passage and go directly to the White Continent. Until recently, only scientists and researchers used the back door to get into Antarctica. Not by ship, but flying from Chile. Why sail across the Drake if in just three hours you can be standing with both feet on the Last Continent, safe and well.No fifteen metres high waves that make the stretch of ocean between the tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula so notorious. Flying also means being completely ready and full of energy to discover this extreme part of Earth. In 2001, a clever Chilean company came up with the idea of creating an air bridge during the summer months between Punta Arenas, the southernmost town in Chilean Patagonia, and the Antarctic Peninsula. Not only for biologists, oceanologists and weather scientists but also for the ordinary tourist. So image: no Drake Passage, no 19-day Antarctica sailing itinerary that only travellers with oceans of time can afford. No lost days at sea. But Antarctica in a compact way: a fantastic, adrenaline-filled six days aboard a small expedition ship, without crossing the Drake.

Quick & intense

If you ever dreamed of flying those legendary, rusty Russian cargo planes, you will be in for a disappointment. No Russian steel crate with a glass nose and a semi-drunk, bearded pilot behind the wheel. The BAE-146 built by British Aerospace looks pretty neutral, except that “Antarctica” is painted on its fuselage.  A comfortable 3 hours later we land on King George Island, where Chile’s Eduardo Frei base is situated. Not on ice but on an ordinary gravel airstrip, which in the most extreme occasions is covered with dry snow. Technically, this is not the Antarctic Peninsula but the Southern Shetland Islands. In the distance floats the Ocean Nova, our expedition ship for the next six days. Purpose built in Denmark to smoothly conquer icy seas, this is no ultra-deluxe ship, but a very comfortable home for up to 68 people. Many other ships can take more than 200 people on board but that makes things more complicated in  Antarctica. A short Zodiac ride from King George and we’re in the observation lounge of the Ocean Nova. A warming drink, a beaming 12-strong expedition team and the prospect of seeing and doing things we have never experienced before. The Ocean Nova team is not low calibre. A couple of seasoned biologists, young naturalists, a historian, an ornithologist, an ocean specialist, a doctor and other crew members who have sailed Arctic and Antarctic waters for many years. Some even worked on Russian nuclear ships and have plenty of stories to tell. They are the perfect entertainment and companionship for when having a drink at the bar. Did we mention already it’s an open bar?

Crossing the Bransfield Strait

A glance through the cabin porthole and you know enough: a sunny, early morning overlooking Mikkelsen Harbour on Trinity Island where we will soon make a landing. The strong rubber Zodiacs can take eight to ten passengers. Life jacket on, sunscreen and sunglasses and cameras at the ready. Several Weddell seals lie sunbathing in the snow and a leopard seal circles around the Zodiacs then disappears. “Dangerous animals,” smirks a biologist. “It’s known that they can bite straight through a Zodiac.” Further up near the old whaling station sit a flock of cackling Gentoo penguins. “Never block the way of a penguin,” Mariano, the expedition leader explains. “Penguins always have right of way. No matter what!” In the afternoon, after hours of sailing through a sensational silent white landscape and a hearty lunch, there is a Zodiac trip between icebergs and ice floes in Cierva Cove. The location is the south side of Cape Herschel in Hughes Bay along the Antarctic Peninsula. We glimpse the Argentine research station Primavera in the distance, while close to our Zodiac we see crab eater seals, penguins, and skua birds… Slaloming with the Zodiac between sculptured icebergs you can listen to almost supernatural sounds: the ice releasing millions of years-old air. In the far distance icebergs are breaking off glaciers, and a little closer an iceberg is tipping over… The trip doesn’t end here and will take us to famous spots on the White Continent like Livingston Island, Port Lockroy, Petermann Island, Paradise Bay, Cuverville and Deception Islands. The target of this trip will be the crossing of the Lemaire Channel and latitude 65° South. The highlight for us? A South-American BBQ on the deck of the Ocean Nova while the sun is barely setting behind the blue and pinkish frozen horizon and giant ice pieces are floating by the ship. Antarctica XXI is the ultimate way to see the White Continent in a more intense way. The trip is shorter but better and the dedication of expedition team is infectious. Travelling with a small group in Antarctica means more landings and time ashore.

The verdict

A trip with Antarctica XXI starts at 9.260 US dollars. Included in this price: Flights according to the itinerary, cruise in full board plus all drinks, excursions and lectures, transfers and if needed accommodation on land. Good to know is that due the limited availability the trips sell out fast, so if you want to do this in the season 2012-2013, it is best to book now! We loved the trip, even while there is big room for improvement on the Chilean pre-&post- travel ground control side (but we heard rumours they are working on it). The most important thing: big thumbs up for the expedition team of the Ocean Nova! They were our dream team and made this trip a fabulous experience!

WWW.ANTARCTICAXXI.COM

Are you packed?

Special waterproof boots are provided by Antarctica XXI, but warm clothes are not. Ideally is to bring water- and windproof outdoors clothes. Patagonia and Canada Goose resist the Artic temperatures and extreme wind.

WWW.CANADA-GOOSE.COM
WWW.PATAGONIA.COM
WWW.BAFFIN.CON

The post FLY TO ANTARCTICA AND CRUISE first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Check into the enigmatic and historic 800 year old Jagdschloss Hotel of Count Stolberg-Stolberg and discover Kühtai, a tranquil skiing village high in the mountains of Austrian Tyrol. When Franz Joseph I, the former Austrian Emperor and husband of the captivating empress Sisi, came here to hunt deer and chamois, he had no idea that his beloved Kühtai would one day be one of the most charming ski resorts in the Alps. Nevertheless, until now Kühtai has remained a closely guarded secret.
There are no busloads of tourists, only weekend and day skiers and a sprinkling of sports lovers from Innsbruck, just half an hour away.
In the 800-year old Jagdschloss, the icon of Kühtai, you’re more likely to see Germans coming to enjoy the crystalline mountain air. “I lived in Hamburg for 15 years,” explains the hotel’s charming owner, Count Christian Stolberg-Stolberg, as he sits sunning himself on the terrace. “Now I open for five months during the winter season and spend the rest of the year in Salzburg with my family.” Count Christian sighs deeply as he studies the snowy mountains and the deep blue sky. “This place is highly therapeutic. People living in grey and rainy northern countries like Germany come here for our bright, sundrenched days and the fresh air. When I call my friends in Hamburg and they ask what the weather’s like, they’re usually shocked to hear that I’m sitting on the terrace in a T-shirt enjoying the sun along with my guests, while it’s cold and wet where they are.”
Throughout the day, the Jagdschloss terrace and lounge see a steady trickle of skiers coming and going from the pistes. Less sporty types are just as welcome: “We’re not a classic ski hotel, where the emphasis is on spending as much time as possible on the slopes followed by noisy après-ski parties,” insists the Count as he regally indicates the numerous pistes surrounding the Jagdschloss. “Besides winter sports, my guests come here to rest, to read a good book beside the fire, to meet people, and to enjoy the sunshine and the silence.”Early the next morning a small snowplough clears a path to the hotel after a particularly snowy and bitterly cold night. The driver turns out to be the 65 year-old count himself. The only indication that Count Christian is one of the last descendants of Emperor Franz Joseph I is his traditional green Tyrolean costume. For the rest, he is the upright keeper of his ancient castle and a perfect host to his loyal guests. And yet he’s only been running the place for ten years. It was his father who converted the royal residence into a lodge in the 1950s. He inherited the thirty-acre domain at birth from his mother, the granddaughter of Franz Joseph I and Elisabeth of Bavaria, aka empress Sisi.
A portrait of the world famous Sisi hangs here, but in fact she never visited the hunting lodge belonging to her husband. The long and aristocratic history of the house is tangible: the creaking floorboards, a roof that appears alive, the red and white striped Habsburg shutters and downstairs the wonderful Fürstenstube (Prince’s lounge), the heart of the house, where most people have to stoop to enter the low doorway. After a morning of skiing, guests gather here at noon for steaming bowls of hearty goulash or potato soup, traditional dishes such as Tafelspitz or the cloyingly sweet Kaiserschmarren.
For those who love winter wonderlands, the nights here are magical. The snow lies in deep drifts on the hotel’s roof and crackles from the cold, while inside a huge fire burns brightly in the hearth. Couples drink prosecco or glasses of good wine, thanks to the Count’s huge wine cellar. Friends chat in the lounge and every evening, a five-course dinner of superlative quality is served. Staying guests who prefer to choose familiar dishes like cheese fondue can order in advance. The Prince’s lounge is the most agreeable place to eat, but when it’s busy the hotel’s new wing is also used as a restaurant. A tip for those who dine and sleep here: always ask for a table in the old wing, which is loaded with charm and character.
Count Christian usually dines among his guests, at his own table beneath a painting of his grandfather. The hotel is chock-full of beautiful antiques, engraved brass dishes (the hunting trophies of bygone eras), yellowing family trees and ancestral portraits. Guests who love nostalgia are advised to choose the historic Fürsten (Prince) bedrooms in the old building, where in earlier times the most eminent guests stayed when visiting the hunting lodge. The rooms are a little on the simple side with small, modest bathrooms and mini-flat screen TVs but they are loaded with a warmth and charm that new hotels can only dream to match.
Besides indulging yourself at the Jagdschloss, you can also go up the mountain. With 40 km of pistes and an altitude of just over 2000 meters, Kühtai is a snow-guaranteed winter sports destination from December to early May. Even its official website is called Schneegarantie.at. The ski lifts climb to around 2500 metres and there are pistes from baby blue to devil black. Conveniently, all the accommodation is ski-in/ski-out because Kühtai is literally surrounded by pistes. The village centre is one large snowy street where you’ll find all the hotels, restaurants and shops. Perfect for families, less suitable for revellers who enjoy the traditional Tyrolean après-ski.
Very popular is night-time skiing on Saturday and Wednesday when the Hoch Alter lift stays open from 7.30 pm to 11pm. The well-lit ski piste wends its way high above the village before slithering down again like a snake. From this season, there is also a free bus connection between Kühtai and the resort of Hochoetz. Kühtai is also great for families because it has three ski schools that teach even the youngest ski folk. There’s also K Park, a fun park for snowboarders with rails, jumps and kickers for all levels. But Kühtai’s trump card is undoubtedly the fact that there are only 1600 hotel beds here and the equivalent lift capacity. In other words, you’re only likely to queue for lifts during the school holidays or at weekends. Outside these times, it’s peaceful and you often have pistes almost to yourself.
Those in serious need of après-ski can head for the Dorfstadl Hotel, which offers an enormous sun terrace by day and an inviting restaurant and bar by night. It’s also nice to hang out in the Zum Kaiser Maximilian mountain hut (either walk or grab a jeep taxi) and enjoy the spectacular view over Kühtai, especially when the piste is lit up at night and you’re whizzing back down along a car-free track on a horse-drawn sled. Back on the terrace of the Jagdschloss, a Dutch woman is out enjoying the sun, her only companion a huge dog, keeping lookout over the valley. The rest of the family is skiing. “I’ve been coming to this area all my life. Even my grandmother came to the Kühtai valley by horse and cart. At that time, they climbed the mountain wearing special shoes made from animal skins and talking was forbidden because of the danger of avalanche.” She laughs.
“I think Kühtai is still a closely kept secret, especially during the week, when it’s quiet and relaxed, although it is changing. See that huge, pink building? That wasn’t there a couple of years ago. Neither was the Igloo Village, where you can sleep in igloos. But for me Kühtai remains a treasure and I’ll keep returning. Besides, enjoying this fantastic Kaiserwetter on the terrace of the charming Jagdschloss, you can’t help but feel like royalty!”

THE VERDICT Kuhtai is a perfect ski station if you want to be an early bird and hit the slopes already in November and stay on them until late April. It’s a compact and friendly village with as highlight the Schlosshotel for those preferring cosiness and atmosphere over design and hipness.

THE COST A historical room in half board at the Jagdschloss starts around 155 euro per day, per person. A rather basic breakfast and a lovely five-course dinner are included.

HOW TO GO The hotel can arrange transport from and to the airport of Innsbruck, which is only a 45 minutes drive away. If you want to self-drive, then Sunny Cars offers the best prices with an all-inclusive formula, starting at 30 euro a day.

WWW.SUNNYCARS.COM

ON THE SLOPES Skiing in Kühtai and in the two ski-areas around the village will set you back  around 87 euro for three days in high season and 65 euro in low season.
From 28.11.2014 till 19.12.2014 many Kuhtai hotels including Jagdschloss Hotel offer their guests (booking a minimum of 3 nights) a day ski pass free of charge for each overnight stay. More about free skiing in Kühtai via Kuehtai.info

WWW.SCHNEEGARANTIE.AT

The post TO SKI HEAVEN AND BACK first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Picture-perfect Design: Hotel Wiesergut, Saalbach-Hinterglemm

The story: What was once a family-run guesthouse hidden in a simple building has three years ago been transformed into one of the most talked about design hotels in the Alps. Standing in front of Hotel Wiesergut it seems almost inconceivable that a 14^th century building is hidden inside the tightly modern architecture. It’s also hard to believe that the stylish owners, Martina and Sepp Kröll, were once farmers, and actually still are. Sepp still has his cows alongside the alm high up on the mountain.

This forty-something couple don’t look like archetypal Austrian peasants in their stylish outfits, a mix of Austrian tradition and contemporary fashion. A couple of years ago, Sepp thought it was about time the old family guesthouse his grandmother Gertrude started many years ago was transformed into something completely new and until now unseen in Austria.

The location: In Saalbach-Hinterlemm, two valleys come together at an altitude of 1,061 metres. In winter there is of course skiing. In the summer, this is walking and mountain biking paradise. Hotel Wiesergut lies at the foot of the Zwölfkogler lift station and ski slopes, perfect for those loving direct ski-in/ski-out access.

The Design: The Krölls commissioned Austrian architect Monika Gogl from Gogl & Partner to convert the old structure into something pure, new and surprising. What is most striking is the attention to detail: from the enormous custom-made steel door and window frames to the warm cosiness created by using lots of indirect lighting, wood and natural fabrics. Much of the furniture and lighting were tailor made for the hotel. The brief: create a real design hotel albeit one that does not feel cold but radiates organic warmth.

Sepp Kröll wanted to use only natural materials. Timeless and indestructible. Felt, linen, concrete, wood, granite, steel… The passages from one building to the next are made of metres-high insulated glass, the stainless steel swimming pool overlooks the ski slopes, and the suites on the ground floor, with their own fireplaces and hot tubs, are the kind you almost never want to leave.

For who: Hotel Wiesergut appeals to an architecture and design-minded public. However, those afraid of that all too often arrogant “design hotel” atmosphere, fear not. The service is warm and easy-going. The general mood is relaxed, from the immaculate breakfast with local cheeses, charcuterie, and freshly baked bread (by Sepp’s mother in a traditional oven) to evenings in the bar or in the old-fashioned stubbe where both innovative and more traditional dishes are served.

Via Culinaria: Sepp and his wife also own the Wieseralm restaurant and bar alongside the Reiterkogel ski slope. In a relaxed ambiance you can sample “hausmännische Kost”: pleasant homely dishes, beautifully presented.

The allure: We are a big fan of the private hot tubs on the outside terrace of the suites. They are custom-made in stainless steel and filled with natural spring water. It’s yet another fine example of the rigorous eye for detail in this design hotel, and without compromising on service or comfort.

Intergenerational delight: Haus Hirt, Badgastein

The story: Several years ago, an old spa hotel dating from 1924 was converted into one of the cosiest and most unique family hotels in the Alps. Famous names once stayed here: Thomas Mann, Lady Churchill, the Shah of Iran… nowadays it is the graceful and ever-present Evelyn Ikrath who looks after her international clientèle with unending gentilesse.

Evelyn has selected a décor boasting a mixture of retro chic and 1920s glamour with fresh modern accents. Haus Hirt is not a traditional family hotel, you know the kind that is best avoided by couples. Evelyn’s concept works: it’s a place where young families feel at home, but where other guests like young couples or even grannies can relax too. There are few family hotels in the Alps that manage to combine such a perfect sense of warmth and cosiness with a dash of eccentricity.

The location: The Gastein valley lies a few feet away from the terrace of Haus Hirt. Towering mountains encircle the tranquil, rural valley while a ski slope or winter sport resort lies behind nearly every peak. Bad Gastein is a compact town in Belle Époque style best known for its hot springs, gigantic waterfalls and numerous spa hotels. Besides boasting more than 220 kilometres of ski slopes, Gastein is famous for cross-country skiing or langlaufen and in the summer for hiking in the Hohe Tauern National Park. We loved the outing with Haus Hirt into the mountains to feed the deer. Hundreds of wild bambi, big and small, came surprisingly close to us during an almost zen-like feeding session. It took the organiser almost 20 years before these deer became less shy and acquainted to people.

The design: Haus Hirt Hotel & Aveda Spa was built in the last century as an imposing and elegant Alpine lodge. It served for many years as one of many “spa” hotels until it was assigned its present role as an intimate “privat haus” focusing more on enjoyment and relaxation. Throughout the hotel you find elements of the arts and crafts movement in symbiosis with specially commissioned modern artworks.

We love the numerous loungers and sofas everywhere, striking (art) books are scattered around, and the playfully eccentric colour schemes popping up in the décor don’t compromise the cinematic views over the Gastein valley. The 29 rooms and suites are spacious and comfortable, often with balconies looking out on the Alpine landscape. Creaky wooden floors, white as the signature colour, Tolomeo lamps…

For who: Haus Hirt is a meeting place for likeminded people with the same tastes and life philosophy. It doesn’t matter whether it’s the children or young parents who get to know each other during their stay. Even grandparents are in their element. The only risk is that after staying here, you are guaranteed to want to return. Be warned, the hotel is often fully booked in winter.

Via Culinaria: You eat well in Haus Hirt thanks to full board, but for those who want to venture out to taste or drink something local, then the Alpine restaurant Valeriehaus is a must. This mountain inn opened in 1889 and has a beautiful, sunny terrace offering views over the langlauf slopes of Sportgastein.

The allure: We love the quaint atmosphere! Everyone feels at home in Haus Hirt, especially in the evenings when the children are asleep and parents can sit in the cosy bar to enjoy a good glass of Austrian wine or a Spritz. Evelyn even consulted a DJ friend in Vienna on the choice of music played during the day and evening. Everything, down to the tiniest detail, is well thought out.

Authentic Cosiness: Bergdorf Priesteregg, Leogang

The story: Bergdorf Priesteregg is the charming concept of a couple of young ex-farmers who wanted to do something different with their exceptional piece of land at an altitude of 1,100 metres. It all began with a small, cosy restaurant in a wooden chalet. You know, the sort of mountain eatery where you enjoy steaming plates of hearty food while it’s snowing and freezing cold outside. The owners Renate and Huwi Oberlader were successful with their stubbe and quickly noticed that their (often) international clientèle also wanted to stay overnight on their mountain. On a visit to the Maldives the couple discovered the concept of compact, individual luxury bungalows. Instead of the azure blue waters, you’ll find here mesmerising views  towards the Leoganger Steinbergen mountain range.

Bergdorf Priesteregg is a fairytale mountain village with individual wooden chalets offering much more space and privacy than an ordinary hotel room. A generous, home-made and organic breakfast is brought to your chalet, served whenever you want and set up while you are still sound asleep in the next door bed room. The deep sleep comes from the Austrian pine interior, or who knows, from the apres-dinner schnapps the night before! After breakfast you can have a massage in your room or hop in the open-air baths hidden in the woods and with views over the valley. It would be a shame not to use your own private wooden sauna and steaming hot tub on your terrace! Huwi explains the couple’s concept is so successful he has almost 100% occupancy since Day 1. They’ve even developed a special iPhone app so future or returning guests can see which days of the year are still available.

The location: Leogang in the Saalfelden-Leogang region is a quiet, unspoilt village surrounded by lots of skiing and mountaineering possibilities. The hotel offers a free shuttle to the local ski station where you can store ski equipment for free in a locked room and dry your ski boots.

The design: Bergdorf Priesteregg looks like a small and quiet Alpine hamlet. The luxurious chalets surround a central point with a pond, benches and sheepskin loungers. Once a week, bread is baked in the special outdoor oven and given as a present to the guests. The Dorpf has a total of 16 chalets, some with two rooms, others more luxurious such as the Luis Trenker and Willy Bogner chalets, with own heated swimming pool.

For who: If you’re fed up with regular hotels, this is the ideal place. You have more privacy and space, and you get the feeling that you are living in your own luxury chalet on a mountain, without sacrificing on that good old fashion Austrian hospitality. It’s clear: Couples like coming here, but families love the larger chalets too.

Via Culinaria: Go for high altitude eating on a sun-drenched terrace, at a height of 2,300 metres in the Alte Schmiede. In this restaurant you’ll find Austrian classics plus lots of local produce on the menu.

The allure: We fell in love with the intimacy and tranquillity of the chalets. You can hide away from the world but still have the option to walk for 10 minutes (or hop on the golf cart) down the mountain in the evening to enjoy dinner in one of Priesteregg’s vibrant and cosy restaurants. There is the old and Stube-like Huwi’s Alm or the newer and more airy Restaurant Brugg with a fabulous terrace towards the valley.

GOOD TO KNOW

HOTEL WIESERGUT From 230 euro per night for a double room. Hotel Wiesergut is a two-hour drive from Salzburg.

WWW.DESIGNHOTELS.COM/WIESERGUT
WWW.SAALBACH.COM

HAUSHIRT One-week full board from 912 euro per adult, including the Haus Hirt-XL service. This comprises an extremely generous breakfast buffet (Austrian-style), a light lunch with plenty of salads, soup, a hot dish and even a fruit mash for the youngest guests (until 17:00), a gourmet dinner for the adults or an early “kids dinner” for the children, a welcome cocktail, a weekly programme of activities, access to the swimming pool, sauna and steam bath, Kneipp hydrotherapy…

WWW.HAUS-HIRT.COM
WWW.GASTEINERTAL.COM/VALERIEHAUS/
WWW.GASTEIN.COM/EN

THE COST OF PRIESTEREGG From 193 euro per person, per night including breakfast. The price includes extras such as the BMW ski shuttle, mountain bikes, felt slippers, daily supply of wood for the open fire in your bedroom… Children under 6 stay free.

WWW.PRIESTEREGG.AT
WWW.ALTESCHMIEDE-LEOGANG.COM
WWW.SAALFELDEN-LEOGANG.COM

HOW TO GET TO SALZBURGERLAND – AUSTRIA To get there, take a direct flight to Vienna with a wide range of international airlines. This is great especially when you want to combine a city visit with the pure air of the Salzburgerland mountains. Our favourite hotel in the city is the Kempinski Palais Hansen, starting from 255 euro a night. We loved the elegant rooms and the voluptuous breakfast. 
Once in Vienna, there are several options to get to Salzburgerland  :
Or hop on a train from Vienna to Badgastein, it will take around 4,5 hours.
Or take a domestic flight from Vienna to Salzburg with Austrian Airlines (Star Alliance member) and then rent a car or take a train to for example Badgastein. The flight itself takes 50 minutes and driving from Salzburg to Badgastein is less than an hour, same for hopping on a train. Renting a car from Salzburg or Vienna, completely all-inclusive, will cost 282 euro a week with Sunny Cars.

WWW.SUNNYCARS.COM

The post THREE INNS IN SALZBURGER LAND first appeared on Remote Experiences.

The best way to explore a vast and almost inaccessible national park in Alaska is to hop on a bush plane and fly along.
My rendezvous with the wilderness is somewhere in a forgotten corner of Alaska, around six in the evening. That is, as long as the weather holds. It’s the end of June and the sun never sets in the evening. “Park alongside the log cabin and wait, but stay away from the stretch of ground beside the car park.” were the instructions in the email. I am in tiny Chitina, population 150 people. The only other reason why travellers come here is to salmon fish in the fast flowing clear rivers. Chitina is a four-hour, scenic drive from the city of Anchorage and it actually feels like it’s the end of the world. I am staring up at a cloudy sky, standing next to my car. In the distance, a red dot appears, following the Chitina River. A few minutes later, a shiny red DHC-3 Otter lands right in front of us on the gravel. Our taxi has arrived, with at the wheel, Paul Claus, a second generation aviator and adventurer and owner of Ultima Thule Lodge where we are about to stay for the next three days. We bundle into the Twin Otter and leave civilization as we know it behind us. Ultima Thule Lodge is located some 150 kilometres away, in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, stretching from Canada’s Yukon Territory to the Pacific Ocean. One of the largest protected pieces of earth on this planet. No roads, no cars and almost no people, just lots of bears, mosquitos and us.Paul’s father, John Claus, learned to fly in the 1950s and bought a piece of land deep in the wilderness, close to the Chitina River under the then Homestead Act. At that time, there was no question of a national park. It was just endless wilderness here. Together with his wife Eleanor, John built a modest wood cabin and a landing strip close to the river. They loved to camp out in the wild, to enjoy nature, fish, hunt and be away from it all. Decades later, when the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park was established, the Claus’ were allowed to keep their piece of land and small outpost, one of the very few in this vast expanse of 53,000 square kilometres protected wilderness. “Did you know that lots of Hollywood celebs like coming to Ultima Thule Lodge because they can be absolutely sure that no paparazzi can get up here? They would never survive the wilderness,” Paul smirks. “Jim Carry is a regular guest. One day I had to make an emergency flight to carry diesel to some stranded trekkers and Carry came along with me. When we arrived, I wanted to get out with the two jerry cans but he stopped me. Instead, he took the cans, changed his hair look and wearing a typical Carry expression, walked over to the trekkers and said ‘Here’s your diesel, folks!’ I’ll never forget their faces,” he laughs. Just like Carry, most guests come here during the summer months to escape the world and be close to nature. Brown and black bears wander past the lodge, at night you can hear a pin drop, and the fresh air smells like freshly sharped pencils.

Nowadays it is mainly son Paul, his wife Donna and their daughters Ellie, Logan, son Jay and son-in-law Ben who run the lodge. Just like granddad John, who is now retired and lives in Anchorage, the family members are all pilots. No ordinary pilots, but fearless and highly skilled bush pilots. The special kind you often see on National Geographic Channel in series like Alaska’s Toughest Pilots. When there is no more wine or beer, one of the family simply hops into a Super Cub and flies out to get it. The gigantic stove and sofa, plus all the other materials used to build the present luxury lodge were flown here in the Twin Otter. In the Alaskan wilderness, flying is just like learning how to ride a bike. “How do you fancy a hike up the mountain just behind the lodge tomorrow, weather permitting?” asks Paul, with ruddy cheeks and twinkling eyes during dinner. Everyone sits together at the same table: us, two other couples from New York and a mother and daughter from LA. “How in god’s name will I get up that impressive mountain,” I think to myself, taking a quick swig of the tasty, locally brewed Alaskan White Ale to stiffen my nerve. Paul notices my doubt and smirks. He does this a lot. “Hey, don’t panic,” Paul gives me a slap on my back, “We fly you to the top of the mountain in the Super Cub. Easy! From there, you hike for a couple of hours to the edge of the rock face from where we come and pick you up again, two by two, in the plane. Deal?”

Flying with a Super Cub is just like sitting in a floating tin can, but one that weighs less than 500 kilos. Paul is in the pilot’s seat with us behind him like a pair of sardines wearing headphones. “Ready?” Our bush plane called Alpha climbs quickly, as fast as a buzzing bee. “It’s almost like having your own wings,” says our pilot. “Isn’t it?” Paul skims low across the river and then swiftly soars higher. When our captain spots a good piece of grass, he circles and prepares to land. After only a few bumpy metres on its gigantic rubber tires, the Super Cub comes to a halt. “Out you get. I’ve got other guests to pick up!” Within a few minutes, Paul disappears again, over the ridge of the mountain. The Alpha has no electronic motor so the propeller has to be manually turned. “He’s crazy, mad!” laughs Mica Albert, a famous, American photographer who is a friend of the Claus family and is staying here for a few weeks with his pregnant wife and young daughter. Together with the two guides, we stand there, on top of a huge mountain, waiting for Paul to come back with the other two guests. Meanwhile, there’s nothing but wild Alaskan nature around us. Snowy peaks in the distance and further away, glaciers and more wilderness. We walk for hours over mossy ground, with no trees, occasionally snow, and lots of spectacular views, a few wild sheep and according to one of our guides, a brown bear in the distance. The guides always carry a gun, standard kit when you are out walking in Alaska. That evening, after a healthy hike, we hear more Alaskan-style stories at the dinner table. A few weeks earlier they had to shoot a grizzly bear. “The poor bugger constantly came to the lodge and it wasn’t afraid of the dog or other noises. That’s when it becomes dangerous. When one of the girls went outside in the evening, the grizzly was standing just a few metres away from her. Enough said,” explains Paul. Meanwhile, Ellie and her sister are cooking dinner, a gigantic (self-caught) salmon in the oven, served with organic vegetables from their own garden. While I am having a drink at the counter, Ellie tells me that as well as being a bush pilot, her husband Ben is also a helicopter pilot with the American army, at present posted in Afghanistan. “He’ll be back in a few months. It is safer here than out there. Even with the occasional bear in the garden.”

The charismatic Lonie Habersetzer is one of the bush pilots working here in the summer. In winter he swops Alaska for the skies over East Africa. “Extremely different places but equally challenging to fly around,” says Lonie as he prepares the Super Cub for departure. On today’s programme, bush plane sightseeing, lunch in a beautiful spot and a few surprises, according to Lonie. The Super Cub is so agile and light that skimming the surface of the Chitina River isn’t really a problem. Lonie navigates the Alpha through narrow passages, the tip of the aircraft just a few metres from the rock face. Suddenly, the temperature inside the Super Cub drops dramatically. We are close to the Chitina glacier where Lonie effortlessly lands the Alpha. We are just beside an enormous, deep blue crater in the glacier where ice melt rapidly flows into the abyss. A short time later, he puts the Super Cub down on a sandbank near the river. Time for lunch, gun beside the cooler because some bears are also known to be fond of delicious, grilled vegetable wraps. “Later, when you see a spot you want to photograph, just let me know,” says Lonie. “Maybe I can land, who knows. You have to enjoy every moment here because we are visiting places where only a handful of people have ever been. This wilderness is dangerous and risky for humans. Thanks to our little planes, we can reach them more safely.” A little later, Lonie parks the Alpha in 1,2,3 on a piece of grassy meadow that abruptly ends in a treacherous void. As we gaze out at the landscape, Lonie keeps an eye on the clouds and mist gathering behind us. “The weather changes fast here. If these clouds reach us, we may have to stay here overnight. Let’s go!”

Back at the lodge, the Claus family is busy in the kitchen. It almost feels like coming home after a day at work. On the menu roast lamb and other delicious homemade treats. Nothing fancy, just hearty food. After our Super Cub adventure, we enjoy the comfort of our cosy, wooden log cabin with its fluffy, giant bed and high thread count linen. In the main lodge, new table guests join us for dinner. The three Alaskans arrived by helicopter and take care of the maintenance of weather stations scattered throughout the park. There are never more than 12 guests in the lodge, so the atmosphere stays intimate. We ask Paul what’s on the programme for the next day even if we know already his answer. “Friends,” he says, while grinning, “We are in the deep, Alaskan wilderness. I can’t tell you right now. Maybe I’ll fly you to an abandoned gold mine, or we’ll go rafting on the Chitina River. Or perhaps we’ll fly over the peak of Mount St. Elias, the highest vertical rock face in the world. If the weather is fine, I can even take you to the Atlantic Ocean. A few days ago, one of my other planes flipped over when landing on the beach. Nothing serious, but I don’t want any bears to find it and reduce it to scrap metal.” Paul takes a gulp of Alaskan Ale and looks wistfully out of the window towards the river in the distance. “No single day is the same here, the wilderness decides. Take it or leave it.”

THE VERDICT Ultima Thule was the highlight during our almost 3-weeks trip in Alaska. Seen its price tag, its obviously not very everyone, but for those who can afford it, this is THE way to see and experience wild Alaska in style. Ultima Thule Lodge is cosy and comfortable with fantastic beds hidden in warm cabins and superb home cooked food in the middle of the big wilderness.

THE COST  Expect to pay $1,700 per person / per night with a 3 nights minimum stay. This includes a DHC-3 Otter flight to and from the lodge to either Valdez or Chitina, all bush plane flights, a tailor-made and unforgettable adventure each day, senior guides and any necessary equipment/gear, organic and wild Alaskan gourmet meals, complimentary selection of specially selected beer and wines, lodging in a private, multi-room deluxe cabin and unlimited access to sauna & self-spa and satellite internet.

WWW.ULTIMATHULELODGE.COM

HOW TO GO We travelled first to Anchorage, which is a quirky and charming city, perfect as a base to explore Alaska. If you are based in Europe, check out the new connection with Icelandair, linking lots of European cities via Reykjavik to Anchorage. This connection gives you the opportunity to experience two amazing countries such as Alaska and Iceland in one trip and with one flight ticket.

WWW.ICELANDAIR.COM

CLIMATE The best time to travel to Ultima Thule is from June to September. The weather in Alaska can be unpredictable so dress for 4 seasons in one day. During summer months expect temperatures between 5 and 20 degrees Celsius. When the sun is out it’s hot and you will be happy in a T-shirt but when it’s foggy and rainy you definitely need a good water- and windproof jacket, especially when flying in the Super Cubs and landing on glaciers or mountain tops.

WHAT TO PACK Try to protect yourself and your gear from very changeable weather. Waterproof jackets, pants, thin gloves, good walking shoes and a backpack or bag, which can handle the wild (check out our preferred gear here). Don’t forget to pack a pair of good binoculars, we swear by Swarovski Optik. Do bring plenty of mosquito repellent and a mosquito net to cover your head when the little buggers are a bit too numerous.

The post FLYING ON THE WILD WINGS OF ALASKA first appeared on Remote Experiences.