What other hotel website has a moon calendar to help you time your stay? The northernmost wildlife park in the world is also one of its most exclusive—read: only for the happy few. With just a handful of annual stays available, this secluded lodge offers extreme privacy, nestled deep within the quiet Arctic woods of Northern Norway. Far from the ordinary, it’s a sanctuary where the untamed beauty of the Arctic meets luxurious comfort, creating an experience that is both intimate and extraordinary.
At the heart of this retreat is a unique opportunity to connect with Arctic wolves. Guided by a master animal guardian and seasoned keepers, guests are invited into the wolves’ domain for an up-close and transformative encounter. These majestic creatures, with their piercing eyes and quiet strength, offer an unparalleled window into the wild. It’s an experience that reshapes your understanding of nature and fosters a deep appreciation for the untamed.
The lodge itself features just three opulent suites, each designed for ultimate comfort and exclusivity. A private lounge with panoramic windows provides breathtaking views of the Arctic wilderness, making it a haven for reflection and connection. The safari-like rules add to the adventure—no one ventures out alone, ensuring safety while maintaining the sense of awe that defines the experience. Days are filled with exhilarating activities, including guided hikes through pristine landscapes, snowmobile rides over frozen lakes, and intimate moments spent with the wolves under expert supervision.
Guests can also learn about critical conservation efforts, gaining insight into the delicate balance of protecting these incredible animals. As night falls, the Arctic skies deliver a show like no other. In winter, the vivid colors of the Aurora Borealis light up the heavens, while in summer, the midnight sun casts an ethereal glow over the landscape. Each evening becomes a grand finale, a celebration of nature’s wonders.

Limited to just 15 all-inclusive stays per year, with a three-night minimum, this private retreat offers exclusive access to the wolves while directly supporting their care and conservation. It’s a rare and meaningful experience that allows you to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with the raw beauty of the Arctic. Book early—this unparalleled journey into the wild fills up fast!

This exclusive Arctic stay starts at approximately €80,000 for three nights.
Get in touch for more information.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post HOWLING IN THE WILD, AN ARCTIC WOLF EXPERIENCE first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Nestled in the heart of Norway’s Sunnfjord region, this historic farmstead offers an exclusive escape where two pristine rivers meet. Established in 1885 and lovingly preserved through five generations of the Sørli family, the estate has been transformed into a haven of luxury and authenticity by its current stewards, Steinar Sørli and Yngve Brakstad. A seamless blend of traditional Norwegian country living and refined elegance, this secluded retreat promises a bespoke experience for discerning travelers.

Surrounded by lush meadows and dramatic peaks, the farmstead provides a serene backdrop for curated activities that showcase the region’s natural beauty and cultural richness. Guests can enjoy guided kayaking on tranquil rivers, explore charming local farms, or delve into the area’s heritage with cultural excursions. For the adventurous, glacier hiking, salmon fishing, and helicopter sightseeing offer exhilarating perspectives of Sunnfjord’s breathtaking landscapes.

Inside, the estate’s interiors are a masterpiece of timeless Norwegian heritage. Each room is uniquely decorated with original heirlooms and vibrant details, creating an atmosphere of rustic sophistication. Evenings are indulgent, with freshly prepared meals highlighting the finest local ingredients and the rich flavors of the fjords.

Available for exclusive buyout only, the property features 10 elegantly designed bedrooms spread across four historic buildings arranged around a secluded courtyard. Guests can unwind in cozy lounges with fireplaces, an outdoor hot tub, sauna, or sunny yoga studio, with optional in-room massages and beauty treatments for added indulgence. Ideal for families or private gatherings (groups of up to 20), this retreat offers an intimate and private setting to reconnect, recharge, and rediscover the finer things in life.

Pricing starts at approximately €54,000 for three nights (6 guests), including all food, beverages, and activities. Secure your unforgettable escape today and immerse yourself in the spellbinding charm of the Norwegian fjords.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post WHERE RIVERS MEET A LUXURIOUS RETREAT first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Is the fate of many unique, virtually abandoned villages in the unknown corner of Abruzzo sealed? Not if Swedish-Italian millionaire Daniele Kihlgren can help it. In 1999, a solitary motorbike trip proved to be a revelation for this modern-day idealist. By chance, he stumbled upon the almost-deserted hilltop village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio in the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park in the Apennines. He was struck speechless, not only by the outstanding beauty of the setting, but also because almost everything was untouched. “Time seemed to have stood perfectly still – no concrete buildings, no factories, no tourist infrastructure like the Swiss chalets you find in so many Abruzzese towns,” says Kihlgren. It wasn’t long before he returned to Santo Stefano – not only with his motorbike, but also with a plan to save this village from extinction. Kihlgren, in his mid-forties, has been described as a maverick, a millionaire with enormous willpower. And where there’s a will, there’s a way. Kihlgren bought a house in Santo Stefano and soon many more. Next step was signing a deal with the local authorities to leave Santo Stefano in its original condition – in other words, an embargo on building new houses and a ban on the use of concrete. In exchange, Kihlgren would spend a substantial sum, up to €4.5 million – a mix of his own and borrowed money – on breathing new life into the village and giving it a second chance. “This has nothing to do with renovation,” Kihlgren insists. “It’s about restoration – restoring honour. I had a unique opportunity to save one of the last authentic places in Italy from the grip of cement.” In 2004, five years after Kihlgren first wandered through Santo Stefano, the village was ready for its second life. Kihlgren received help from some big names, including the renowned British architect David Chipperfield, who also supports the concept of ‘conservative restoration’, or restoring while maintaining original features.The result of the first project here in Santo Stefano di Sessanio is Sextantio Albergo Diffuso. A fairly recent concept in the hotel business, an albergo diffuso is a ‘hotel’ scattered throughout a town in different houses. Guests are assimilated into the village and feel part of the community. Kihlgren’s Sextantio originally had 32 houses, but some have been sold to foreigners. Buying a completely restored house from Kihlgren costs about €1200 to €1500 (from $1470) per square metres. The rest serve as hotel rooms with a central reception area, hotel manager and staff.The rooms usually come with a kitchenette, a table and chairs, a fireplace – Spartan luxury. “We try to retain everything that refers back to village life,” says Kihlgren. “Only local materials are used, and old furniture and artefacts were sourced in the area. Modern technology, such as under-floor heating and light switches, is discreetly hidden. We also conducted research with the National Museum of Abruzzo and talked to the elderly residents of Santo Stefano to discover how people used to live and what materials they used. Even beter, after a couple of days staying here, you feel connected with the place. Probably just how Kihlgren felt the moment he decided to save a part of Italian heritage.

How to get there

Santo Stefano di Sessanio is 150 kilometres (a 1.5-hour drive) from Rome and 100 kilometres from the Adriatic coast and the city of Pescara. The best way to explore the region is by car. Sextantio Albergo Diffuso has 27 rooms dotted throughout several buildings, ranging from double rooms to suites, which are twice as large.
A Classic Room with breakfast for two starts at a bargain €160 ($196) per night in low season. While the setting is perfect, there’s definitely room for improvement on the hospitality side.

WWW.SEXTANTIO.IT/SANTO-STEFANO/

The post SAVING SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO first appeared on Remote Experiences.

The best way to explore a vast and almost inaccessible national park in Alaska is to hop on a bush plane and fly along.
My rendezvous with the wilderness is somewhere in a forgotten corner of Alaska, around six in the evening. That is, as long as the weather holds. It’s the end of June and the sun never sets in the evening. “Park alongside the log cabin and wait, but stay away from the stretch of ground beside the car park.” were the instructions in the email. I am in tiny Chitina, population 150 people. The only other reason why travellers come here is to salmon fish in the fast flowing clear rivers. Chitina is a four-hour, scenic drive from the city of Anchorage and it actually feels like it’s the end of the world. I am staring up at a cloudy sky, standing next to my car. In the distance, a red dot appears, following the Chitina River. A few minutes later, a shiny red DHC-3 Otter lands right in front of us on the gravel. Our taxi has arrived, with at the wheel, Paul Claus, a second generation aviator and adventurer and owner of Ultima Thule Lodge where we are about to stay for the next three days. We bundle into the Twin Otter and leave civilization as we know it behind us. Ultima Thule Lodge is located some 150 kilometres away, in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, stretching from Canada’s Yukon Territory to the Pacific Ocean. One of the largest protected pieces of earth on this planet. No roads, no cars and almost no people, just lots of bears, mosquitos and us.Paul’s father, John Claus, learned to fly in the 1950s and bought a piece of land deep in the wilderness, close to the Chitina River under the then Homestead Act. At that time, there was no question of a national park. It was just endless wilderness here. Together with his wife Eleanor, John built a modest wood cabin and a landing strip close to the river. They loved to camp out in the wild, to enjoy nature, fish, hunt and be away from it all. Decades later, when the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park was established, the Claus’ were allowed to keep their piece of land and small outpost, one of the very few in this vast expanse of 53,000 square kilometres protected wilderness. “Did you know that lots of Hollywood celebs like coming to Ultima Thule Lodge because they can be absolutely sure that no paparazzi can get up here? They would never survive the wilderness,” Paul smirks. “Jim Carry is a regular guest. One day I had to make an emergency flight to carry diesel to some stranded trekkers and Carry came along with me. When we arrived, I wanted to get out with the two jerry cans but he stopped me. Instead, he took the cans, changed his hair look and wearing a typical Carry expression, walked over to the trekkers and said ‘Here’s your diesel, folks!’ I’ll never forget their faces,” he laughs. Just like Carry, most guests come here during the summer months to escape the world and be close to nature. Brown and black bears wander past the lodge, at night you can hear a pin drop, and the fresh air smells like freshly sharped pencils.

Nowadays it is mainly son Paul, his wife Donna and their daughters Ellie, Logan, son Jay and son-in-law Ben who run the lodge. Just like granddad John, who is now retired and lives in Anchorage, the family members are all pilots. No ordinary pilots, but fearless and highly skilled bush pilots. The special kind you often see on National Geographic Channel in series like Alaska’s Toughest Pilots. When there is no more wine or beer, one of the family simply hops into a Super Cub and flies out to get it. The gigantic stove and sofa, plus all the other materials used to build the present luxury lodge were flown here in the Twin Otter. In the Alaskan wilderness, flying is just like learning how to ride a bike. “How do you fancy a hike up the mountain just behind the lodge tomorrow, weather permitting?” asks Paul, with ruddy cheeks and twinkling eyes during dinner. Everyone sits together at the same table: us, two other couples from New York and a mother and daughter from LA. “How in god’s name will I get up that impressive mountain,” I think to myself, taking a quick swig of the tasty, locally brewed Alaskan White Ale to stiffen my nerve. Paul notices my doubt and smirks. He does this a lot. “Hey, don’t panic,” Paul gives me a slap on my back, “We fly you to the top of the mountain in the Super Cub. Easy! From there, you hike for a couple of hours to the edge of the rock face from where we come and pick you up again, two by two, in the plane. Deal?”

Flying with a Super Cub is just like sitting in a floating tin can, but one that weighs less than 500 kilos. Paul is in the pilot’s seat with us behind him like a pair of sardines wearing headphones. “Ready?” Our bush plane called Alpha climbs quickly, as fast as a buzzing bee. “It’s almost like having your own wings,” says our pilot. “Isn’t it?” Paul skims low across the river and then swiftly soars higher. When our captain spots a good piece of grass, he circles and prepares to land. After only a few bumpy metres on its gigantic rubber tires, the Super Cub comes to a halt. “Out you get. I’ve got other guests to pick up!” Within a few minutes, Paul disappears again, over the ridge of the mountain. The Alpha has no electronic motor so the propeller has to be manually turned. “He’s crazy, mad!” laughs Mica Albert, a famous, American photographer who is a friend of the Claus family and is staying here for a few weeks with his pregnant wife and young daughter. Together with the two guides, we stand there, on top of a huge mountain, waiting for Paul to come back with the other two guests. Meanwhile, there’s nothing but wild Alaskan nature around us. Snowy peaks in the distance and further away, glaciers and more wilderness. We walk for hours over mossy ground, with no trees, occasionally snow, and lots of spectacular views, a few wild sheep and according to one of our guides, a brown bear in the distance. The guides always carry a gun, standard kit when you are out walking in Alaska. That evening, after a healthy hike, we hear more Alaskan-style stories at the dinner table. A few weeks earlier they had to shoot a grizzly bear. “The poor bugger constantly came to the lodge and it wasn’t afraid of the dog or other noises. That’s when it becomes dangerous. When one of the girls went outside in the evening, the grizzly was standing just a few metres away from her. Enough said,” explains Paul. Meanwhile, Ellie and her sister are cooking dinner, a gigantic (self-caught) salmon in the oven, served with organic vegetables from their own garden. While I am having a drink at the counter, Ellie tells me that as well as being a bush pilot, her husband Ben is also a helicopter pilot with the American army, at present posted in Afghanistan. “He’ll be back in a few months. It is safer here than out there. Even with the occasional bear in the garden.”

The charismatic Lonie Habersetzer is one of the bush pilots working here in the summer. In winter he swops Alaska for the skies over East Africa. “Extremely different places but equally challenging to fly around,” says Lonie as he prepares the Super Cub for departure. On today’s programme, bush plane sightseeing, lunch in a beautiful spot and a few surprises, according to Lonie. The Super Cub is so agile and light that skimming the surface of the Chitina River isn’t really a problem. Lonie navigates the Alpha through narrow passages, the tip of the aircraft just a few metres from the rock face. Suddenly, the temperature inside the Super Cub drops dramatically. We are close to the Chitina glacier where Lonie effortlessly lands the Alpha. We are just beside an enormous, deep blue crater in the glacier where ice melt rapidly flows into the abyss. A short time later, he puts the Super Cub down on a sandbank near the river. Time for lunch, gun beside the cooler because some bears are also known to be fond of delicious, grilled vegetable wraps. “Later, when you see a spot you want to photograph, just let me know,” says Lonie. “Maybe I can land, who knows. You have to enjoy every moment here because we are visiting places where only a handful of people have ever been. This wilderness is dangerous and risky for humans. Thanks to our little planes, we can reach them more safely.” A little later, Lonie parks the Alpha in 1,2,3 on a piece of grassy meadow that abruptly ends in a treacherous void. As we gaze out at the landscape, Lonie keeps an eye on the clouds and mist gathering behind us. “The weather changes fast here. If these clouds reach us, we may have to stay here overnight. Let’s go!”

Back at the lodge, the Claus family is busy in the kitchen. It almost feels like coming home after a day at work. On the menu roast lamb and other delicious homemade treats. Nothing fancy, just hearty food. After our Super Cub adventure, we enjoy the comfort of our cosy, wooden log cabin with its fluffy, giant bed and high thread count linen. In the main lodge, new table guests join us for dinner. The three Alaskans arrived by helicopter and take care of the maintenance of weather stations scattered throughout the park. There are never more than 12 guests in the lodge, so the atmosphere stays intimate. We ask Paul what’s on the programme for the next day even if we know already his answer. “Friends,” he says, while grinning, “We are in the deep, Alaskan wilderness. I can’t tell you right now. Maybe I’ll fly you to an abandoned gold mine, or we’ll go rafting on the Chitina River. Or perhaps we’ll fly over the peak of Mount St. Elias, the highest vertical rock face in the world. If the weather is fine, I can even take you to the Atlantic Ocean. A few days ago, one of my other planes flipped over when landing on the beach. Nothing serious, but I don’t want any bears to find it and reduce it to scrap metal.” Paul takes a gulp of Alaskan Ale and looks wistfully out of the window towards the river in the distance. “No single day is the same here, the wilderness decides. Take it or leave it.”

THE VERDICT Ultima Thule was the highlight during our almost 3-weeks trip in Alaska. Seen its price tag, its obviously not very everyone, but for those who can afford it, this is THE way to see and experience wild Alaska in style. Ultima Thule Lodge is cosy and comfortable with fantastic beds hidden in warm cabins and superb home cooked food in the middle of the big wilderness.

THE COST  Expect to pay $1,700 per person / per night with a 3 nights minimum stay. This includes a DHC-3 Otter flight to and from the lodge to either Valdez or Chitina, all bush plane flights, a tailor-made and unforgettable adventure each day, senior guides and any necessary equipment/gear, organic and wild Alaskan gourmet meals, complimentary selection of specially selected beer and wines, lodging in a private, multi-room deluxe cabin and unlimited access to sauna & self-spa and satellite internet.

WWW.ULTIMATHULELODGE.COM

HOW TO GO We travelled first to Anchorage, which is a quirky and charming city, perfect as a base to explore Alaska. If you are based in Europe, check out the new connection with Icelandair, linking lots of European cities via Reykjavik to Anchorage. This connection gives you the opportunity to experience two amazing countries such as Alaska and Iceland in one trip and with one flight ticket.

WWW.ICELANDAIR.COM

CLIMATE The best time to travel to Ultima Thule is from June to September. The weather in Alaska can be unpredictable so dress for 4 seasons in one day. During summer months expect temperatures between 5 and 20 degrees Celsius. When the sun is out it’s hot and you will be happy in a T-shirt but when it’s foggy and rainy you definitely need a good water- and windproof jacket, especially when flying in the Super Cubs and landing on glaciers or mountain tops.

WHAT TO PACK Try to protect yourself and your gear from very changeable weather. Waterproof jackets, pants, thin gloves, good walking shoes and a backpack or bag, which can handle the wild (check out our preferred gear here). Don’t forget to pack a pair of good binoculars, we swear by Swarovski Optik. Do bring plenty of mosquito repellent and a mosquito net to cover your head when the little buggers are a bit too numerous.

The post FLYING ON THE WILD WINGS OF ALASKA first appeared on Remote Experiences.

What is the result when an Asian country tries to manage the tourism industry by charging a fair amount of entry tax to the adventurous traveller? Plus when it wants to keep far away from the madding backpacking crowds? Take 20.000 visitors a year and mix it with a 100% Buddhist population in a landlocked country with dreamy landscapes that will tantalize every serious travelista. Ok, you have to have a certain budget to get in. But who wouldn’t pay a bit more for a destination where the happiest people in the world live, where chilli peppers are eaten as a vegetable rather than a spice and where the beer, called Red Panda, is devilish tasty? And oh, we forgot to mention the Zhongs where monks live who perform now and the then the most hypnotic chants and dances and the fact that the locals are dressed as if they are huge fans of Dries Van Noten who decided that men also can wear skirts and sexy socks. If this isn’t enough we can give away that one of the best hotels Classe Touriste ever every stayed in is located here. High in the valley of Punaka you can stay in one of the five, fabulous Aman Resorts of Bhutan. In Punaka it’s an old summer palace that is hosting eight guests who will experience Bhutan at it’s best. An experience trough guided visits and tours in comfy jeeps, refined cuisine and mesmerising vista’s over de Punaka valley. And if you wonder after a while why the people of Bhutan are voted as the most happiest in the world, then just smell the air and find out that there grows more marihuana along the side of the road than in Jamaica and that a man AND a woman can have several spouses. Who wouldn’t pay a bit more for that!

WWW.AMANRESORTS.COM

The post THE VALUE ADDED TAX OF BHUTAN first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Amangiri is an ode to the mysterious rock formations of southern Utah and the ancient Navajo culture. An enclave of luxury and style in America’s most dramatic desert landscape. Take one of the world’s most influential and eccentric hoteliers, bring him together with several prominent American architects and drop them into the magical moonscape of immense rock formations, mesas and rolling hills somewhere deep in southern Utah. The location is Canyon Point, a stone’s throw from the famous Lake Powell and spot on the invisible border between Arizona and Utah. Finding Amangiri in this desert landscape is not easy. A mini signpost indicates left, towards a dusty road that disappears into endless oblivion. After a long drive between looming rock formations with characteristic flowing lines etched in the sandstone, you at last spot Amangiri in the distance. A mirage in the form of a razor-sharp, rectangular pavilion made of polished concrete. Amangiri nestles alongside a huge sandstone escarpment. The architecture does not impose itself on the landscape. The only unnatural note in this desert setting is the sharply contrasting blue of the swimming pool. Out of respect for the rugged Utah terrain and its typical Entrada sandstone, the hotel was designed as a massive block that seems to have emerged from the earth through natural erosion by the elements. The three architects used a mixture of local sand and cement to closely match the colour and density of the surrounding geological formations. Because of its remoteness, a special concrete casting plant had to be built on-site and colossal moulds were used to achieve the resulting monolithic forms. And light is undoubtedly one of the most important protagonists here. Amangiri is so remote that there’s literally nothing else to see here except nature and the exceptional play of light that changes at every moment of the day. Zechia and I-10 Studio have designed Amangiri in such a way that light constantly manifests itself in different ways. The angular minimalism of the building’s design is enhanced by an equally jagged play of light, from the fine sunrays sketching patterns on the sand-coloured walls, to the views through glassless windows that give the impression that the landscape is a painting. The architecture grabs the extreme environment, together with the light, and pulls them inside.

Every aspect of the architecture refers back to the immediate surroundings. Like two eagle’s wings, the 34 rooms and suites sweep out from the main building towards the desert. Each room overlooks this harsh scenery and wide panoramic views are even visible from the bath or bed. The idea is to step immediately out of your room into the desert. A large folding window opens completely onto a private terrace with a fire pit. Perfect for admiring the intense pitch-black nights and starry skies of southern Utah. In the main pavilion there is a bar, a restaurant, a library and a shop. In true Asian tradition, Zechia has also included a posh spa, where you find cool, enclosed spaces that hark back to traditional Navajo hogan buildings and for less sweltering moments of the day, small open-air treatment pavilions. The spa’s small swimming pool also provides relief from the dry desert heat. Wherever you look, all you see is water, rock or sky, nothing else. Amangiri is dominated by a purity of design and an absence of over-decoration. It’s a bit like camping in ultra-luxurious surroundings. Imagine: no noise, not even music beside the swimming pool, and shifting, hallucinatory landscapes with no light pollution because the civilized world is so far away. Perhaps these elements give Amangiri its extraordinary character and explain why those who visit, always wish to return.

The verdict

We were blown away by the location and the design. This is truly one of the most remarkable resorts in the US. We would go back immediately to sit on the terrace of our room, admiring the views over the desert or to watch the sunset on the terrace of the main building with a glass of good wine offered by the house. However we were not impressed by The spa therapist. And please feed me some real bread for breakfast!

How to get there

Amangiri (opened in October 2009) is approximately 5 hours driving from Las Vegas (the biggest close by city). Renting a Ford Mustang convertible to explore the area around Amangiri is a big adventure and a real must-do. Sunny Cars offers convertibles starting around 50 dollars per day, all extras and taxes included. Try to explore Glen Canyon National Park, Zion National Park and the famous Horse Shoe Bend plus Antilope Canyon.

The closest airport is Page from where Amangiri organises free transfers.

Room rates start as of 1050 $ + taxes.

WWW.AMANRESORTS.COM

WWW.SUNNYCARS.COM

What to do

Try to explore Glen Canyon National Park, Zion National Park and the famous Horse Shoe Bend plus Antilope Canyon. These highlights of nature are all in easy reach and the drive towards them are already worth the effort. Even a day-trip to Monument Valley is an option.

The post AMANGIRI DESERT CHIC first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Until very recently a no-go destination for many travellers, Burma aka Myanmar has now become an absolute favourite. With endearing nicknames such as the ‘golden land’ or ‘land of the smile’, everybody wants to go now. Who wouldn’t want to visit a country where until very recently time literally and figuratively stood still, cut off from the rest of the world? According to Misuu Borit, the owner of the Inle Princess Resort on the shores of the dreamy Inle Lake, her country might not be ready for the influx of tourists anticipated in coming years. “ It’s a double-edged sword. Before 2009, the occupancy rate of the Inle Princess Resort was barely 30%. Nowadays, 70% of the time I have to inform clients and travel agents that the hotel is fully booked.” Which is logical, because the Inle Princess Resort is one of the most beautiful in Burma. Mick Jagger stayed here shortly before our visit and Cliff Richard was sleeping next to us in his suite overlooking Inle Lake.

Balance in style

Talking about rock stars, Jethro Tull might be quite jealous or get very inspired by the one legged rowers of Inle Lake, Burma’s second largest lake, in the Nyaung Shwe region. These one legged rowers, who are actually fishermen and wear distinctive wraparound trousers, balance stylishly on the edge of a simple wooden boat while they lift huge triangular shaped fishing nets from the lake. When not using a one-cylinder motor, they use a somewhat strange technique to paddle with one leg, leaving both hands free to pull in the nets. The sparkling, unruffled surface of Inle Lake is dotted with fields of lotus flowers, rice and ingenious floating vegetable gardens where tomatoes and other crops grow. Renting a boat for the day to calmly navigate between the water villages and temples on bamboo stilts is an absolute must. Sometimes it feels like an Asian Venice, but minus the hoards of tourists, unless you want to visit a lotus weaving shop or a monastery with world-famous leaping cats. Then you realize you’re not the only tourist on Inle Lake.   

Inspirational Bagan

Something less small-scale is happening in Bagan, a sea of green dotted here and there with earth-red or golden stupas and temples. Despite it’s popularity, Bagan should be on every itinerary. More than 4,000 archaeological monuments surround this former capital city, built between the 11^th and 13^th centuries, and where Buddhism was first introduced from the south of Burma and India. In 1988, in an attempt to stimulate tourism, more than 5,000 inhabitants where forcibly evicted from the Bagan Archaeological Zone. Today, each visitor has to pay the government a fee to enter this demarcated area. Once inside, you find only temples, stalls and the occasional hotel. Try to discover Bagan with a bicycle, horse-drawn cart, by foot or by hot air balloon, the latter being an absolute must. Balloons over Bagan is extremely professional and the experience is impressive. Bagan also has a milder, less humid climate so it’s a great place to spend a few days, relaxing beside the pool of one of the many beautiful hotels after a day of temple visits. Then you get less temple-tired, because there are plenty to see, from the 13^th century Tayok Pye to the 11^th century Manuha temple and the famous Shwesandaw Pagoda where most tourists go to watch sunset. To be avoided if you are not a fan of mass gatherings. If you’re lucky enough to have a good guide like our Mister Myint Zaw, then he’ll take you to an equally beautiful temple where you can watch sunset over magical Bagan, entirely alone.

Sea nomads

The least known place in Burma is without doubt the Mergui Islands, an archipelago of more than 800 small islands most of which are uninhabited. Imagine Phuket or any other tropical beach destination in Asia but with hardly any tourists. The only visitors who find their way here are divers, who live aboard and dive from boats. The most remarkable thing about these islands, apart from the untouched white sandy beaches and the blue Andaman Sea, are the Moken. This small ethnic group are sea nomads who live on traditional wooden boats and constantly roam the seas. They currently number around 2,000, but their population is rapidly declining. Having lived for many generations on the sea, the Moken have developed the capacity to effortlessly dive to depths of 20 metres without any air canisters, often wearing homemade diving goggles and nothing else. There is just one hotel on the Mergui Islands, but the Chinese are looming and with them, plans to build huge luxury resorts within a few years from now. So, if you want to experience the Mergui and the Moken in all their authenticity, you’d better hurry. The only way to do this is to stay at the Andaman Beach Resort: a jewel of a place, located along a pristine white sandy beach. Kayak in mangroves, dive alongside unique reefs… There is a great manager, friendly staff and the food isn’t too bad. The only snag is that the hotel is in dire need of renovation. The chalets sometimes have unwelcome creepy-crawly visitors and the level of comfort is basic. If that thought doesn’t keep you awake and if you want to discover one of the most unknown archipelagos in Asia before it’s too late, you’ll be blown away.

THE VERDICT Burma turned out to be one of our best trips we took in 2012. It is very exceptional to travel to a country that has not really gotten affected by mass tourism. Yet. We loved Bagan and Inle Lake, our two favourite places on this voyage. The Mergui Island were unique too, but you have to agree with very basic accommodation and the occasional rat in the room. Our favourite place to stay in Burma: Inle Princess Resort.
Be aware that for the moment Burma is extremely popular and booming. If you are planning an individual trip, book well in advance or you will end up without a bed to sleep in.

HOW TO GO We travelled with ‘t Zuiderhuis in Belgium. In Burma our operator was a boutique local agency Travels Image (travelsimage at gmail.com), with offices in Yangon. If you travel with them, you can be sure that a minimum amount of your money goes to the government. So it’s money well spend. Our trip lasted almost 20 days and was fully supervised and guided by our truly excellent private guide, mister Myint Zaw.There are daily flights to Yangon from major hubs such as Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and even via the Middle East with luxurious airlines such as Qatar Airways.

WWW.ZUIDERHUIS.BE
WWW.QATARAIRWAYS.COM

WHERE TO STAY/EAT/FLY We stayed at the colonial The Strand and the functional but luxurious Traders Hotel in Yangon, Inle Princess Resort on Inle Lake and the Mandalay Hill Resort in Mandalay. Hilltop Villa Hotel in Kalaw and we can definitely recommend The hotel at Tharabar Gate right in the middle of Old Bagan.
Two restaurants to note down are the Inthar Heritage House in Inle Lake, and Le Planteur Restaurant in Yangon.

WWW.INLEPRINCESSRESORT.NET
WWW.SHANGRI-LA.COM/YANGON/TRADERS
WWW.THARABARGATE.COM

WWW.INTHARHERITAGEHOUSE.COM
WWW.LEPLANTEUR.NET
WWW.EASTERNSAFARIS.COM/BALLOONSOVERBAGAN

VISA & MONEY A visa is required to visit Burma and must be requested in advance from the embassy. Paying with credit card is not yet possible in Myanmar and there are no ATMs. It’s best to bring US dollars and exchange them on the spot. Avoid changing money on the black market or in the street. Upon arrival in Yangon, your guide can take you to a special, official exchange bureau where you can change dollars for the local currency. It’s better to change larger denominations (100 and 200 dollar notes) here. Keep smaller notes for when you’re on the road. Besides local currency, many shops also accept dollars. In the larger hotels in Yangon, such as the Traders Hotel, you can pay with credit card.  1 dollar is worth around 880 Kyat.

CLIMATE The best time to visit Burma is roughly between the end of October and the end of March. Then the rainy season begins. Expect a warm, tropical climate that rarely drops below 25°C. Only in the higher regions and the former British stations such as Kalaw is it fresher and less humid.

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WWW.AMANRESORTS.COM

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We must admit that going around the world in business class, was one of the most exciting things we ever did. With oneworld we flew with Finnair, British Airways, American Airlines, Air Mexicana, JAL and Cathay Pacific around the world for a price of proably one business class ticket to Hong Kong. Real travelista’s don’t have to ask what our top three is. We were extremely charmed by British Airways new World Traveler Class and the T5 facilities at Heatrow. The cabin of the World Traveler Class offers an excellent lay-out in the airplane with a decent amount of privacy for those wanting to sleep or relax. Superb service, tasty food and a good selection of inflight entertainment. Runner up is Cathay Pacific with it’s new and improved business class. Because of it’s success, the business class cabin is quite big and feels not so exclusive as it used to do. The better option is to book a seat on the upper deck where there are only two rows of full-flat beds with lot’s of space and privacy. Of course, as a bonus, you can visit the fabulous lounge at Hong Kong Airport designed by John Pawson.Third runner up is JAL, which gets the gold medal for service and friendly staff. Flying Japan Airlines is like stepping back in time, when service and polite  airline staff, were something natural. We all know that nowadays this is not the case anymore. Maybe Ryanair will start charging extra in the future, for every smile you get onboard.

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WWW.WALLY.COM

UPDATE AUGUST 2012
We just tried out the prototype of the Wally One at Amanzoe Resort, Greece.
A new breed of sleek tender with 740HP, with a stunning topspeed of 90km/hour, or 50Kn.
You can charter the tender at 1600EUR a day. Or book a sunset (or should we call it sunjet) cruise at 500EUR.
Check out some recent photos on our Facebook page!

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