This is undoubtedly the most stunning horseback journey in Patagonia.
This seven-day journey starts at approximately €7,000.
Reach out to start planning your unforgettable Patagonian adventure.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post A GAUCHO ENCOUNTER: PATAGONIA ON HORSEBACK first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Meet the M/Y Legend, the world’s first mega yacht built to venture into the globe’s coldest, farthest-flung corners. With her 77 meters and gadgets like a mini-submarine, snow scooters, and a Eurocopter, she’s the ultimate way to explore waters that are tricky to reach even with expedition ships. During an endless, soft pink summer night when the sun never sets, with a view of Mount Français, the highest mountain in the Antarctic Peninsula, and a group of killer whales in the distance, I raise my glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc to being here in one of the most hard to reach regions on the planet. I am aboard M/Y Legend, the first boutique icebreaker in the world. She’s now gracefully bobbing around in Antarctica and she feels completely in her element. Legend looks like an elegant and classic super yacht. Sleek, dark, brand new teak decks plus a commercial helipad and a hidden room where a mini submarine for three passengers, jet skis, snowmobiles and other water toys are stored. It feels great to be back in Antarctica. I was here twice before, but only ever aboard larger expedition ships, once with 65 passengers and once with almost 200 guests. This time it’s different. We are a select group of 20 odd guests and the best part is, we just skipped the vicious Drake Passage by flying from Chilean Punta Arenas to King George Island in Antarctica where Legend was waiting for us in the bay. What could be better than flying to Antarctica in 2,5 hours, no Drake Passage, saving four boring sea days and experiencing the highlights of the White Continent in ten days aboard a private ex-Russian icebreaker?

The M/Y Legend was originally built in Holland in 1974 as a Class 1 icebreaker for use in the Baltic Sea during the Cold War. Dutch yacht owner Jan Verkerk bought her in 2013 and with two other investors, he wanted to add something completely new to the existing expedition cruise market. Following a two-year revamp at the Dutch Icon Yachts shipyard she’s been transformed into a floating boutique icebreaker for 22 passengers along with a Balinese spa, a giant heated outdoor Jacuzzi with a built-in rain curtain, a gym with a view, a panoramic salon with a piano, and a mini-cinema for cozy evenings after long days in the cold. My favorite spot is at the bar, not because Mitch, the Dutch bartender, can do magic in the cocktail department, but because my seat is a prime spot to watch the ocean and the White Continent floating by. Like today for example, while having a steaming cup of Rooibos tea I see a Humpback whale playing around in the icy waters of the Antarctic Peninsula. When more whales join in, the captain and onboard expedition team decide to lower one of the tenders to see the action up close and personal. Being able to stop whenever we want, while respecting the rules that apply here in the protected waters of Antarctica, is just great. It goes without saying that the weather is variable. The experienced expedition team—which includes a trip leader, biologist, an Antarctica expert, and an ice pilot—set the course for each day based on current conditions and guests’ personal interests.It’s clear that Legend can do much more than any other ice strengthened super yacht. Sailing through the iceberg-dotted Lemaire Channel? No problem. Checking out the glacial Wedell Sea? It’s possible, thanks to the M/Y Legend’s relatively small capacity. Most other expedition cruise ships exceed the strict passenger limits set by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, which regulates where groups can go. In other words: we have more access to penguin colonies and scientific stations than almost anyone else. The expedition team tries to get us on land as much as possible. Late one afternoon, the Legend nestles into a thick patch of ice in a remote bay. There’s no wind, the water is like a silver platter with the only ripples formed by minke whales feeding under the ice sheet and seals playing around the floe edge. “Let’s set foot on land, or rather, on the ice!” says Tom, the cruise director. After a brisk hike on the frozen sea to spend some time with some sleepy seals, the crew builds a giant natural bar made out of snow and stocked with all kinds of bottles and drinks.“Who wants champagne or a Jägermeister to warm up?” asks Tom. I sip a glass of rosé, thinking how insane this setting is: next to us is Legend, firmly locked with her bow in the ice, and behind us the towering mountains of Antarctica. The sky changes color every minute, now and then we hear the sound of small avalanches and the so recognizable blow of a whale in the distance. “Magical!” we tell each other. “Let’s have another drink to heat up our cold toes!”

There’s another favorite spot on the Legend where I like to sit. It’s not in the oversized jacuzzi with its waterfall on the stern of the ship, and it’s also not on the helipad where for now a bunch of lounge chairs are placed. It’s the outdoor deck just outside the lounge with grand piano and gas fireplace. The small deck is fitted with an open-air kitchen, grill and teppanyaki station where the night before we had a fabulous outdoor BBQ. I sit here a lot, on beautiful, wooden deck chairs, while enjoying the sun (watch out for sunburn!), gazing over the water dotted with gigantic icebergs. I could sit here for hours and hours, taking in this intoxicating polar landscape. Sometimes giant pieces of ice float by with leopard seals basking in the sun. When Legend’s waves hit their piece of ice, they barely move, too lazy to be afraid. After a whole day of being outside, spending hours in the invigorating Antarctic air, there’s nothing better than retreating to my cozy cabin. Each of Legend’s staterooms is named after a city. New York is sleek and modern while my Tokyo stateroom has ruby red ceramic tiles adorned with cherry blossom patterns. The master suite, with a his and hers bathroom, is located on the bow of the ship and has portholes on both sides. The décor of some suites hark back to the time of the great explorers. How brave Shackleton and Scott were and how they probably never, even in their wildest dreams, could have imagined sailing to remote and far-flung polar regions aboard a luxury icebreaker like Legend. I’ll raise a glass to them tonight while sitting on my favorite bar stool, sipping a pisco sour and hopefully watching a school of playful whales in the ocean. A toast to old explorers and cruising in pure style through the most remote region in the world.

Legend is available for charter from 625.000 per week, including 19 staffers and up to 10 expedition crew (excluding helicopter, submarine, fuel and f&b).
Get in touch for more information.
david@remoteexperiences.com

The post BREAK THE ICE ON A MILLIONAIRE SUPER YACHT first appeared on Remote Experiences.

THE VERDICT Lapland is still amazing. It is so easy to travel from any city in Europe up here but yet you feel in another world. Last time we were in Finnish Lapland around Ivalo and it was much more busy and touristy then during this second trip in Swedish Lapland. During this weeklong stay, we were practically alone in this vast and quiet area. It’s exactly this feeling of solitude you really need when traveling up North.

HOW TO GO We travelled with Xplore the North to Swedish Lapland. They offer intense and extreme expeditions to Spitsbergen and to shortbreaks in Lapland for the whole family. A midweek starts from 595 euro, without flight. We flew to Kiruna in Sweden with SAS from Brussels, making a stop-over in Stockholm. SAS is a member of Star Alliance and connects easily with other airlines flying in from the States or Asia.

WWW.XPLORETHENORTH.COM
WWW.FLYSAS.COM

WHAT TO PACK 1.Start with warm merino woollen underwear: the New Zealand brand Icebreaker is the best when it comes to the warmest and most comfortable underwear and socks that are essential for these freezing temperatures. An Icebreaker baklava, a cap that covers the entire face except the eyes, will prevent freezing cheeks and tip of the nose. 2. Perfect for these climates is the Patagonia Down Sweater, made from Primaloft, a synthetic microfiber that replaces regular down feathers. This super insulating material was made during the 1980 for the U.S. Army and is designed to be as light as a feather. 3. An absolute necessity is a vest and pants of the brand Canada Goose. This is the favourite brand of people living in these cold parts of the world. 4. Cold feet are a disaster in Arctic regions. Invest in good boots that can handle the lowest temperatures. Our favourite type is Baffin Footwear, an outdoor brand from the far north of Canada. Especially the model Impact can resist temperatures down to -100 degrees Celsius for both ladies and gentlemen.5. Buy also some hand warmers that start glowing when needed plus a headlamp with LED lighting from the brand Petzl. Petzl crampons are also useful when
walking on the ice.

WWW.ICEBREAKER.COM
WWW.PATAGONIA.COM
WWW.CANADA-GOOSE.COM
WWW.BAFFIN.COM
WWW.PETZL.COM

The post A DATE WITH A HUSKY first appeared on Remote Experiences.

I am wearing three pairs of socks, two thermals, three shirts, a sweater and an expedition jacket, but I am still freezing. The arctic wind slashes against my face as we ride east on qamutiks, or komatiks, authentic Inuit wooden sledges pulled by snow scooters, to base camp. For five hours our small group swishes over the frozen ice of Eclipse Sound and along the shores of the majestic Sirmilik National Park, part of Baffin Island. I am burring my head deep into the warmth of my fluffy but colossal parka, hiding from the icy wind. Visions of tropical islands pop up into my mind. Did I make the right decision of traveling to this very remote Artic part of the world? But then we reach the ice of the floe edge. Arriving here is a breath taking moment, not just because the cold, Arctic air makes my lungs tingle, but because I am standing before a dazzling white desert of icy sea with only several dramatic icebergs in the distance. The only colors are the deep blue sky and some yellow forms in the distance. The qamutiks skate closer and those small, yellow dots grow into a dozen of tents: my otherworldly home for the next five days.
I am in Arctic Canada where a frozen sea awaits me together with a comfy base camp. It’s better not to venture into this unknown wild alone. The best is to book a trip with the bespoke travel company Arctic Kingdom. They bring individual travellers like me from all over the world to this remote location where the frozen floe edge meets the cold, wide Atlantic. Point of meeting is Pond Inlet, a small hamlet in Nunavut, located on the northeastern shores of Baffin Island, 72°North. It took me three flights and almost 10 hours from Ottawa to get here. Canadian North, one of two carriers flying to these remote corners of the world, services Pond Inlet each day with small, propeller airplanes.
Pond Inlet has just over 1000 inhabitants, mostly Inuit and a mix of “Southerners” living and working here. It is a tiny, somewhat peculiar community with a couple of small hotels, no restaurants, two shops and no bars because Pond Inlet is dry: alcohol is forbidden, alas for me, even for visitors. The snow that covers this hamlet during a very long and dark winter starts to melt around the end of May. Arctic Kingdom has set up our base camp on the ice, some 70 kilometres away from town. They looked for the perfect spot: next to the bird sanctuary of Bylot Island and close to two grandiose icebergs frozen in the landscape.
At the floe edge guide Mike drops a hydrophone into the icy water so that we can hear the outlandish sonar sounds below the surface. I am detecting Star Trek-like echoes and noises from bearded seals and whales while I am gazing across immense swathes of frozen Atlantic. There is something immensely calming and soothing about it. “You know, it is a virus. When you have it, once you’re bitten, it draws you back to the (Ant)Arctic. I call it the Polar virus,” says Mr Heiner Kubny from Switzerland who has travelled more than 50 times to Antarctica and into the polar regions of Russia, Canada and Svalbard. Mr. Heiner is sitting extremely relaxed next to me at the border of the floe edge while enjoying the views and snapping away with his huge camera.
During the summer months, the air temperature in the Arctic swings between just below zero and five degrees, depending on the wind chill. Greyish, cold weather with snow in the air and feisty winds that rattle my tent at night quickly changes into tranquil skies and a spooky mist covering the top of the giant tabular iceberg in the distance. A couple of hours later, bright sunshine makes the otherwise much appreciated Canada Goose jackets superfluous. It only takes me a couple of days to adopt the Arctic summer look: a deep tan with the mandatory sunglasses print burned into my face.
We embark on a walk beside a majestic iceberg in the footsteps of a huge polar bear. The guide measures the size of the animal by its tracks. “I think it’s a female, but a big one.” We explore the wide area around base camp on sledges while stopping now and again to admire the views, test the telephoto lenses or to warm ourselves with some hot coffee and tea. For a “top of the world” sensation, Mike suggests we climb a pinnacle shaped iceberg. “This might be your only chance to stand on a berg that is thousands of years old,” he smiles. But then the floe edge calls again where some narwhals have been spotted. Unfortunately, the brown silhouettes with their legendary ivory tusks disappear quickly in the still ocean and nobody is fast enough to snap a picture. The females come to check the floe edge first, to see if it’s already possible to swim through cracks in the ice to feed during the summer months in the rich waters off the Baffin Island fjords.
On my last day in this frozen world, the sky is covered in eerie black clouds; the air is cold and the top layer of ice looks and sounds like the crust of crème brûlée. Back on the floe edge, Mike entertains us by trying to attract whales while making wide arm gestures. “Oh rise up, mighty Leviathans! Rise up!” he calls. Then it happens. Whether by sheer good luck or Mike’s pleas, we get very up close and personal with a giant bowhead whale. The animal is feeding just below the pack ice, right next to the edge where we are standing. Every ten minutes it sticks its massive head above water to gasp some air, while looking at us inquisitively. We hear its loud breathing and smell its fishy breath. Everybody is awestruck and deadly silent. “Amazing! Any closer than this and it will be lying next to me in my tent,” jokes Mr Babis Bizas from Greece, a passionate traveller who has been to every country is the world, twice. “This makes my Arctic trip completely worthwhile.”

Discover more
Checkout our videos and daily blog posts of this trip

Our verdict
Baffin Island is by far the best spot in the world to witness these rare animals, but the narwhal migration varies every year, so it all depends on Mother Nature. The best time to go, is mid June. For polar bear viewing there are much better options then this part of the world. Arctic Kingdom is a well-established company and accustomed to taking travellers to this far-flung destination in the world. The Base Camp infrastructure was simply outstanding, but food could be better. However working in these remote parts of the world isn’t that easy.  Think of almost impossible logistics and very social complexities with Inuit communities. So be prepared to be flexible.

WWW.ARCTICKINGDOM.COM

How to get there
Air Canada offers great Holiday Packages for if you want to discover more of Canada.
From Ottawa to Pond Inlet we flew with Canadian North. Half of the planes flying from Ottawa to Iqaluit are filled with cargo in the front and passengers in the back. It’s a quaint way of travelling and leaving the real world behind to end up in a remote hamlet far above the Arctic Circle. Generally it’s around 2-3 short flights from Ottawa to Pond Inlet. Flying in the Arctic is unpredictable, so it’s wise to leave at least one day of margin with your international flight!
If you fly from Ottawa to Toronto, Porter Airlines is the way to go. The Toronto based boutique airlines that works closely together with Winkreative, the brand and strategy company of Tyler Brulee, better known from Monocle, one of our clients. We loved the all-business class approach with a lounge for everybody at Bishop Airport and the sleek Bombardier Jet flying us.

WWW.AIRCANADAVACATIONS.COM

WWW.CANADIANNORTH.COM
WWW.FLYPORTER.COM

The post SAFARI IN THE POLAR DESERT first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Bet that Shackleton and Amundsen would never have dreamed of this. Fly the Drake and cruise Antarctica. Yes you heard it right, skip the feared Drake Passage and go directly to the White Continent. Until recently, only scientists and researchers used the back door to get into Antarctica. Not by ship, but flying from Chile. Why sail across the Drake if in just three hours you can be standing with both feet on the Last Continent, safe and well.No fifteen metres high waves that make the stretch of ocean between the tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula so notorious. Flying also means being completely ready and full of energy to discover this extreme part of Earth. In 2001, a clever Chilean company came up with the idea of creating an air bridge during the summer months between Punta Arenas, the southernmost town in Chilean Patagonia, and the Antarctic Peninsula. Not only for biologists, oceanologists and weather scientists but also for the ordinary tourist. So image: no Drake Passage, no 19-day Antarctica sailing itinerary that only travellers with oceans of time can afford. No lost days at sea. But Antarctica in a compact way: a fantastic, adrenaline-filled six days aboard a small expedition ship, without crossing the Drake.

Quick & intense

If you ever dreamed of flying those legendary, rusty Russian cargo planes, you will be in for a disappointment. No Russian steel crate with a glass nose and a semi-drunk, bearded pilot behind the wheel. The BAE-146 built by British Aerospace looks pretty neutral, except that “Antarctica” is painted on its fuselage.  A comfortable 3 hours later we land on King George Island, where Chile’s Eduardo Frei base is situated. Not on ice but on an ordinary gravel airstrip, which in the most extreme occasions is covered with dry snow. Technically, this is not the Antarctic Peninsula but the Southern Shetland Islands. In the distance floats the Ocean Nova, our expedition ship for the next six days. Purpose built in Denmark to smoothly conquer icy seas, this is no ultra-deluxe ship, but a very comfortable home for up to 68 people. Many other ships can take more than 200 people on board but that makes things more complicated in  Antarctica. A short Zodiac ride from King George and we’re in the observation lounge of the Ocean Nova. A warming drink, a beaming 12-strong expedition team and the prospect of seeing and doing things we have never experienced before. The Ocean Nova team is not low calibre. A couple of seasoned biologists, young naturalists, a historian, an ornithologist, an ocean specialist, a doctor and other crew members who have sailed Arctic and Antarctic waters for many years. Some even worked on Russian nuclear ships and have plenty of stories to tell. They are the perfect entertainment and companionship for when having a drink at the bar. Did we mention already it’s an open bar?

Crossing the Bransfield Strait

A glance through the cabin porthole and you know enough: a sunny, early morning overlooking Mikkelsen Harbour on Trinity Island where we will soon make a landing. The strong rubber Zodiacs can take eight to ten passengers. Life jacket on, sunscreen and sunglasses and cameras at the ready. Several Weddell seals lie sunbathing in the snow and a leopard seal circles around the Zodiacs then disappears. “Dangerous animals,” smirks a biologist. “It’s known that they can bite straight through a Zodiac.” Further up near the old whaling station sit a flock of cackling Gentoo penguins. “Never block the way of a penguin,” Mariano, the expedition leader explains. “Penguins always have right of way. No matter what!” In the afternoon, after hours of sailing through a sensational silent white landscape and a hearty lunch, there is a Zodiac trip between icebergs and ice floes in Cierva Cove. The location is the south side of Cape Herschel in Hughes Bay along the Antarctic Peninsula. We glimpse the Argentine research station Primavera in the distance, while close to our Zodiac we see crab eater seals, penguins, and skua birds… Slaloming with the Zodiac between sculptured icebergs you can listen to almost supernatural sounds: the ice releasing millions of years-old air. In the far distance icebergs are breaking off glaciers, and a little closer an iceberg is tipping over… The trip doesn’t end here and will take us to famous spots on the White Continent like Livingston Island, Port Lockroy, Petermann Island, Paradise Bay, Cuverville and Deception Islands. The target of this trip will be the crossing of the Lemaire Channel and latitude 65° South. The highlight for us? A South-American BBQ on the deck of the Ocean Nova while the sun is barely setting behind the blue and pinkish frozen horizon and giant ice pieces are floating by the ship. Antarctica XXI is the ultimate way to see the White Continent in a more intense way. The trip is shorter but better and the dedication of expedition team is infectious. Travelling with a small group in Antarctica means more landings and time ashore.

The verdict

A trip with Antarctica XXI starts at 9.260 US dollars. Included in this price: Flights according to the itinerary, cruise in full board plus all drinks, excursions and lectures, transfers and if needed accommodation on land. Good to know is that due the limited availability the trips sell out fast, so if you want to do this in the season 2012-2013, it is best to book now! We loved the trip, even while there is big room for improvement on the Chilean pre-&post- travel ground control side (but we heard rumours they are working on it). The most important thing: big thumbs up for the expedition team of the Ocean Nova! They were our dream team and made this trip a fabulous experience!

WWW.ANTARCTICAXXI.COM

Are you packed?

Special waterproof boots are provided by Antarctica XXI, but warm clothes are not. Ideally is to bring water- and windproof outdoors clothes. Patagonia and Canada Goose resist the Artic temperatures and extreme wind.

WWW.CANADA-GOOSE.COM
WWW.PATAGONIA.COM
WWW.BAFFIN.CON

The post FLY TO ANTARCTICA AND CRUISE first appeared on Remote Experiences.

The best way to explore a vast and almost inaccessible national park in Alaska is to hop on a bush plane and fly along.
My rendezvous with the wilderness is somewhere in a forgotten corner of Alaska, around six in the evening. That is, as long as the weather holds. It’s the end of June and the sun never sets in the evening. “Park alongside the log cabin and wait, but stay away from the stretch of ground beside the car park.” were the instructions in the email. I am in tiny Chitina, population 150 people. The only other reason why travellers come here is to salmon fish in the fast flowing clear rivers. Chitina is a four-hour, scenic drive from the city of Anchorage and it actually feels like it’s the end of the world. I am staring up at a cloudy sky, standing next to my car. In the distance, a red dot appears, following the Chitina River. A few minutes later, a shiny red DHC-3 Otter lands right in front of us on the gravel. Our taxi has arrived, with at the wheel, Paul Claus, a second generation aviator and adventurer and owner of Ultima Thule Lodge where we are about to stay for the next three days. We bundle into the Twin Otter and leave civilization as we know it behind us. Ultima Thule Lodge is located some 150 kilometres away, in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, stretching from Canada’s Yukon Territory to the Pacific Ocean. One of the largest protected pieces of earth on this planet. No roads, no cars and almost no people, just lots of bears, mosquitos and us.Paul’s father, John Claus, learned to fly in the 1950s and bought a piece of land deep in the wilderness, close to the Chitina River under the then Homestead Act. At that time, there was no question of a national park. It was just endless wilderness here. Together with his wife Eleanor, John built a modest wood cabin and a landing strip close to the river. They loved to camp out in the wild, to enjoy nature, fish, hunt and be away from it all. Decades later, when the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park was established, the Claus’ were allowed to keep their piece of land and small outpost, one of the very few in this vast expanse of 53,000 square kilometres protected wilderness. “Did you know that lots of Hollywood celebs like coming to Ultima Thule Lodge because they can be absolutely sure that no paparazzi can get up here? They would never survive the wilderness,” Paul smirks. “Jim Carry is a regular guest. One day I had to make an emergency flight to carry diesel to some stranded trekkers and Carry came along with me. When we arrived, I wanted to get out with the two jerry cans but he stopped me. Instead, he took the cans, changed his hair look and wearing a typical Carry expression, walked over to the trekkers and said ‘Here’s your diesel, folks!’ I’ll never forget their faces,” he laughs. Just like Carry, most guests come here during the summer months to escape the world and be close to nature. Brown and black bears wander past the lodge, at night you can hear a pin drop, and the fresh air smells like freshly sharped pencils.

Nowadays it is mainly son Paul, his wife Donna and their daughters Ellie, Logan, son Jay and son-in-law Ben who run the lodge. Just like granddad John, who is now retired and lives in Anchorage, the family members are all pilots. No ordinary pilots, but fearless and highly skilled bush pilots. The special kind you often see on National Geographic Channel in series like Alaska’s Toughest Pilots. When there is no more wine or beer, one of the family simply hops into a Super Cub and flies out to get it. The gigantic stove and sofa, plus all the other materials used to build the present luxury lodge were flown here in the Twin Otter. In the Alaskan wilderness, flying is just like learning how to ride a bike. “How do you fancy a hike up the mountain just behind the lodge tomorrow, weather permitting?” asks Paul, with ruddy cheeks and twinkling eyes during dinner. Everyone sits together at the same table: us, two other couples from New York and a mother and daughter from LA. “How in god’s name will I get up that impressive mountain,” I think to myself, taking a quick swig of the tasty, locally brewed Alaskan White Ale to stiffen my nerve. Paul notices my doubt and smirks. He does this a lot. “Hey, don’t panic,” Paul gives me a slap on my back, “We fly you to the top of the mountain in the Super Cub. Easy! From there, you hike for a couple of hours to the edge of the rock face from where we come and pick you up again, two by two, in the plane. Deal?”

Flying with a Super Cub is just like sitting in a floating tin can, but one that weighs less than 500 kilos. Paul is in the pilot’s seat with us behind him like a pair of sardines wearing headphones. “Ready?” Our bush plane called Alpha climbs quickly, as fast as a buzzing bee. “It’s almost like having your own wings,” says our pilot. “Isn’t it?” Paul skims low across the river and then swiftly soars higher. When our captain spots a good piece of grass, he circles and prepares to land. After only a few bumpy metres on its gigantic rubber tires, the Super Cub comes to a halt. “Out you get. I’ve got other guests to pick up!” Within a few minutes, Paul disappears again, over the ridge of the mountain. The Alpha has no electronic motor so the propeller has to be manually turned. “He’s crazy, mad!” laughs Mica Albert, a famous, American photographer who is a friend of the Claus family and is staying here for a few weeks with his pregnant wife and young daughter. Together with the two guides, we stand there, on top of a huge mountain, waiting for Paul to come back with the other two guests. Meanwhile, there’s nothing but wild Alaskan nature around us. Snowy peaks in the distance and further away, glaciers and more wilderness. We walk for hours over mossy ground, with no trees, occasionally snow, and lots of spectacular views, a few wild sheep and according to one of our guides, a brown bear in the distance. The guides always carry a gun, standard kit when you are out walking in Alaska. That evening, after a healthy hike, we hear more Alaskan-style stories at the dinner table. A few weeks earlier they had to shoot a grizzly bear. “The poor bugger constantly came to the lodge and it wasn’t afraid of the dog or other noises. That’s when it becomes dangerous. When one of the girls went outside in the evening, the grizzly was standing just a few metres away from her. Enough said,” explains Paul. Meanwhile, Ellie and her sister are cooking dinner, a gigantic (self-caught) salmon in the oven, served with organic vegetables from their own garden. While I am having a drink at the counter, Ellie tells me that as well as being a bush pilot, her husband Ben is also a helicopter pilot with the American army, at present posted in Afghanistan. “He’ll be back in a few months. It is safer here than out there. Even with the occasional bear in the garden.”

The charismatic Lonie Habersetzer is one of the bush pilots working here in the summer. In winter he swops Alaska for the skies over East Africa. “Extremely different places but equally challenging to fly around,” says Lonie as he prepares the Super Cub for departure. On today’s programme, bush plane sightseeing, lunch in a beautiful spot and a few surprises, according to Lonie. The Super Cub is so agile and light that skimming the surface of the Chitina River isn’t really a problem. Lonie navigates the Alpha through narrow passages, the tip of the aircraft just a few metres from the rock face. Suddenly, the temperature inside the Super Cub drops dramatically. We are close to the Chitina glacier where Lonie effortlessly lands the Alpha. We are just beside an enormous, deep blue crater in the glacier where ice melt rapidly flows into the abyss. A short time later, he puts the Super Cub down on a sandbank near the river. Time for lunch, gun beside the cooler because some bears are also known to be fond of delicious, grilled vegetable wraps. “Later, when you see a spot you want to photograph, just let me know,” says Lonie. “Maybe I can land, who knows. You have to enjoy every moment here because we are visiting places where only a handful of people have ever been. This wilderness is dangerous and risky for humans. Thanks to our little planes, we can reach them more safely.” A little later, Lonie parks the Alpha in 1,2,3 on a piece of grassy meadow that abruptly ends in a treacherous void. As we gaze out at the landscape, Lonie keeps an eye on the clouds and mist gathering behind us. “The weather changes fast here. If these clouds reach us, we may have to stay here overnight. Let’s go!”

Back at the lodge, the Claus family is busy in the kitchen. It almost feels like coming home after a day at work. On the menu roast lamb and other delicious homemade treats. Nothing fancy, just hearty food. After our Super Cub adventure, we enjoy the comfort of our cosy, wooden log cabin with its fluffy, giant bed and high thread count linen. In the main lodge, new table guests join us for dinner. The three Alaskans arrived by helicopter and take care of the maintenance of weather stations scattered throughout the park. There are never more than 12 guests in the lodge, so the atmosphere stays intimate. We ask Paul what’s on the programme for the next day even if we know already his answer. “Friends,” he says, while grinning, “We are in the deep, Alaskan wilderness. I can’t tell you right now. Maybe I’ll fly you to an abandoned gold mine, or we’ll go rafting on the Chitina River. Or perhaps we’ll fly over the peak of Mount St. Elias, the highest vertical rock face in the world. If the weather is fine, I can even take you to the Atlantic Ocean. A few days ago, one of my other planes flipped over when landing on the beach. Nothing serious, but I don’t want any bears to find it and reduce it to scrap metal.” Paul takes a gulp of Alaskan Ale and looks wistfully out of the window towards the river in the distance. “No single day is the same here, the wilderness decides. Take it or leave it.”

THE VERDICT Ultima Thule was the highlight during our almost 3-weeks trip in Alaska. Seen its price tag, its obviously not very everyone, but for those who can afford it, this is THE way to see and experience wild Alaska in style. Ultima Thule Lodge is cosy and comfortable with fantastic beds hidden in warm cabins and superb home cooked food in the middle of the big wilderness.

THE COST  Expect to pay $1,700 per person / per night with a 3 nights minimum stay. This includes a DHC-3 Otter flight to and from the lodge to either Valdez or Chitina, all bush plane flights, a tailor-made and unforgettable adventure each day, senior guides and any necessary equipment/gear, organic and wild Alaskan gourmet meals, complimentary selection of specially selected beer and wines, lodging in a private, multi-room deluxe cabin and unlimited access to sauna & self-spa and satellite internet.

WWW.ULTIMATHULELODGE.COM

HOW TO GO We travelled first to Anchorage, which is a quirky and charming city, perfect as a base to explore Alaska. If you are based in Europe, check out the new connection with Icelandair, linking lots of European cities via Reykjavik to Anchorage. This connection gives you the opportunity to experience two amazing countries such as Alaska and Iceland in one trip and with one flight ticket.

WWW.ICELANDAIR.COM

CLIMATE The best time to travel to Ultima Thule is from June to September. The weather in Alaska can be unpredictable so dress for 4 seasons in one day. During summer months expect temperatures between 5 and 20 degrees Celsius. When the sun is out it’s hot and you will be happy in a T-shirt but when it’s foggy and rainy you definitely need a good water- and windproof jacket, especially when flying in the Super Cubs and landing on glaciers or mountain tops.

WHAT TO PACK Try to protect yourself and your gear from very changeable weather. Waterproof jackets, pants, thin gloves, good walking shoes and a backpack or bag, which can handle the wild (check out our preferred gear here). Don’t forget to pack a pair of good binoculars, we swear by Swarovski Optik. Do bring plenty of mosquito repellent and a mosquito net to cover your head when the little buggers are a bit too numerous.

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