Slow Food is above all linked with its charismatic founder, Carlo Petrini, but from the very beginning, Vito Puglia equally pulled his weight. Twenty years on, this true pioneer doesn’t reside in a busy head office in northern Italy, but under an olive tree at his exceptional restaurant Perbacco in southern Italy. Only ‘noses’ and insiders know where it is. This restaurant is the playground of Vito Puglia, born and raised in Cilento, a little known region of southern Italy. Vito grew up to become one of the first pioneers and founders of the Slow Food movement. However, Vito is no marketing lad or savvy businessman. On the contrary, despite Slow Food being one of the most important culinary movements of all time, Vito prefers to stay small and keep a low profile. After all, Slow Food is all about going back to basics, back to the essence, with respect for local produce and the environment. Perbacco is not a conventional eating establishment of which there are so many. Foodie snobs who expect to find trained sommeliers and white tablecloths are better off staying away. Perbacco, as a tribute to Bacchus, is something special. A few tables scattered beneath centuries-old olive trees overlooking green hillsides and beyond the shimmering Adriatic Sea. This unknown corner of southern Italy seems to bathe in an impressive light cast over the surface of the sea, the olive trees and the historic villages where time seems to stand still. Which is why Vito has not built an ordinary restaurant here with four walls and a roof. His guests sit outside, under ancient olive trees, or in bad weather, in a kind of covered, furnished barn. Vito makes the view of the Adriatic Sea the protagonist in his decor. In a modest house beside the terrace you find the bar and Vito’s office.

For 23 years Vito has pursued his mission to preserve unadulterated tastes and products in his own restaurant. In combination with a club for Epicurean friends, Perbacco was first a wine bar serving food, then a small tavern where in the 1990s live music was played late into the night and today it is one of the finest restaurants in the region. Vito leads the restaurant with his team of two chefs, Ramon and his wife Cristina, who lovingly translate Vito’s culinary philosophies. The main ingredients on Perbacco’s menu mostly come from Cilento, which forms part of the Campania region, and are always seasonal. The local anchovy is a big favourite and the fish is served here in numerous variations.

Thanks to Slow Food, the alici di Menaica stands on the list of protected products, and a presidium has been set up to ensure this delicacy does not disappear. These small fish are still caught here in the old-fashioned and traditional way. In the past, this technique was used across the whole Mediterranean while now it is only along the Cilentan coast that fishing continues in this small-scale manner. Local fishermen go out in their boats at night to catch the anchovies with nets. Only the larger fish are caught in the nets while the smaller ones escape to continue growing. The fishermen immediately discard the head and viscera of the anchovies and store them in wooden crates, without refrigeration or ice. On arrival back at port, the fish are immediately washed with seawater and then layered with salt in terracotta pots for at least three months. Menaica anchovies are recognizable by their pale pink colour and intense, delicate flavour. They are the perfect accompaniment for many of the fresh pasta dishes on the Perbacco menu. Go for the vermicelli Marina Campagna with wild fennel, sweet little pepperoni verdi, mini tomatoes and of course anchovies. Vermicelli is typical in these parts and often served with wild fennel. The beauty of this dish is that there is no heavy sauce involved. The pasta is pure and remains light. The taste of the fennel and the alici dominate, while the sweet peppers and tomatoes remind you it’s still summer in Cilento.

The post DINING WITH MISTER SLOW FOOD first appeared on Remote Experiences.

The matriarch of the kitchen
The huge, heavy wooden door swings open and Leda, our Cesarina for tonight, is standing in the hallway with a bright smile. She’s a frail appearance with a sleek bobcat hairstyle and of course the obligatory white apron tied around her waist. Her dining room is already set: lace linen, fine crockery, silver cutlery, crystal glasses, ..  Next door there’s the kitchen where Leda is the Cesarina, the matriarch, the empress. Her husband stays wise fully away. Leda’s ricotta cheese ravioli appetizer has cheese from the nearby village of Campo di Giove. These handmade ravioli are lovely delicate squares bathing in a bright red sauce sprinkled with pecorino and finished with basil. Next is the secondi, a delicate lamb simmered for hours in a egg and lemon sauce. A local recipe, what else. Leda, just like all other Cesarine of the Home Food network, cooks only with local products. Just like their mothers and grandmothers did. Food exotism is banned in their kitchen. According to the founder of Home Food, Italian mothers often know more than chefs. The roots, the origins of the Italian cuisine can be found in the family, in the kitchen and in the pots of la mamma.

The Verdict
A Home Food lunch or dinner, can be very easily booked via the website. First, you have to register for free and then you receive a confirmation of membership. You choose location, date and time and check whether your Cesarina is available or not. Payment is via PayPal. Easy. Home Food will immediately send you a confirmation with all details like address and telephone number of the Cesarina. There are Cesarine all over Italy, from the North to the South with a concentration in the cities. The cost for an evening Home Food is about 40 euros per person, wine included. A steal!

WWW.HOMEFOOD.IT

The post HOME IS WHERE THE ITALIAN MAMMA IS first appeared on Remote Experiences.

Terra firma

We visited two of the most famous trabocchi / seafood restaurants. Trabocco Punto Cavalluccio and Trabocco Pesce Palombo near the village of Rocca San Giovanni. While Trabocco Punto Cavalluccio had the best al fresco seating, Trabocco Pesce Palombo clearly stands out for the beautiful and tasty food. Bruno, the owner of Trabocco Pesce Palombo, and his family owned different trabocchi for more than a century. His wife Giluiana is mostly found with some other bella donnas in the kitchen. Reservations are required because full is full. Almost all trabocco work with a fixed menu where wine, water and coffee are included. You pay around 50 euros for an overdose of delicacies from the sea with free-flow local wine. First a parade of anti pasti, calamari, grilled small fish and octopus. Then comes the pasta with fish or shellfish. As a main you will be served a rich seafood soup that has to be eaten with lots of bread. Eating on a trabocchi is a must-do for any seafood aficionado. After another bottle of delightful pecorino wine, you might start to feel even a bit philosophical. Trabocchi are extensions of the land into the sea. No unstable water where you feel the waves, but terra firma, deeply connected with the sea.

HOW TO GO

Fly to Pescara, a half an hour drive from the Trabocchi coast or fly to Rome, which is 2 hours driving from the Adriatic Coast of Abruzzo.
In collaboration with Slow Food Abruzzo an annual event is organized to put the trabocchi in the spotlight. A fantastic opportunity to try local food from Abruzzo like wines, cheeses, olive oil to everything from the sea. There are laboratorio del gusto, workshops, cultural visits in the cities, …

 The trabocchi restaurants are only open during the summer months, the first restaurants open around late May and remain open until around the end of September.

WWW.CALALENTA.COM
WWW.TRABOCCOPESCEPALOMBO.IT
WWW.TRABOCCOPUNTACAVALLUCCIO.IT

WHERE TO STAY

Rifugiomare is the perfect guesthouse on a stone’s throw from the trabocchi, in San Rocco Giovanni – Abruzzo.
A double room with great breakfast (ask for the classetouriste version) from 90 euros per night.

WWW.RIFUGIOMARE.IT

The post DINING PIEDS DANS L’EAU ALONG THE TRABOCCHI COAST first appeared on Remote Experiences.

First a snow storm, then a dinner from heaven.

Magnus burns the fresh Junipher branches to cook the voluptuous and over-sized scallops from the nearby Norwegian island Hitra. They are cooked in their shell, in their own juice. Very pure served on a bed of juniper branches, decorated with a few glowing pieces of charcoal from a berch tree. “Eat the scallops with your hands and drink the cloudy liquid from the shell.” Suggests Nilsson when he presents the dish during evening dinner. In an old barn, on the hayloft, there are 5 wooden tables with 12 guests, waiting for Nilsson’s 14 creations. Some of the guests came from afar to be here this evening. They braved perhaps half a snowstorm, icy roads, crossing reindeer and pitch black winding roads through dark pine forests just to be shown that even in the middle of winter, one can eat nearly 100% local. Local and interesting, that is. The interesting thing is that there is nothing foreign about what Nilsson is doing here. “The techniques to preserve we use: aging, fermenting, salting, smoking, drying, pickle … these are methods that are used in Sweden for centuries.“ Magnus has been running the kitchen of Faviken since 4 years after working for years in Stockholm and Paris in kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants such as L’Astrance and L’Arpège.

Secrets in the Hobbit hole

Magnus has no stars because Michelin doesn’t hand out stars outside of Stockholm but this doesn’t bother him. For Magnus it’s all about the product and the foraging. Alhough looking and growing your own food sounds maybe more romantic than it really is. In summer, the menus in the winter are already discussed. In the vegetable garden next to the restaurant every year 3000 of veggies are grown. “Take for example the red beets on the menu tonight. It is a special local variant which remains very small and grows a hundred days. A deep red color, bursting with flavor and very important, they are perfect to keep them so that we in the winter use.” Nilsson serves them blackened, thanks to the huge grill in the middle of his kitchen . Even the meat that Magnus serve is not just any meat. We grow more than 200 chickens per year, here on the farm. “explains Magnus. Fascinated by the beef we tried yesterday, we ask for the secret of the intense flavor. Nilsson’s eyes start to twinkle. “The most important thing in our kitchen is to follow the production. Ditto for meat. Only 1 out of the 100 SLC (Swedish Lowland Cattle) are good for our restaurant. The farmer calls us when he thinks there’s an animal that is suitable for the restaurant. Then we go and look and if we are agree, we start with the fattening of cows with only hay and grass. The animal is then slaughtered by a butcher and then we ripen the meat for 1 month. The good pieces of meat are then treated with kidney fat and then there is another aging period, depending on the size of the animal, sometimes up to 9 months. The intense flavor are of the amino acids in the meat. Pure nature. “Laughs Nilsson. Is that the secret of his kitchen? “Yes, real food. Real and pure food. Nothing more. ” Most products are hidden deep in Magnus’s root cellar. A Hobbit hole, almost completely snowed in, with a kind of lock system so that the extremely cold air from outside can not reach the stores. Inside there are shelves full of jars imposed delicacies and tuber veggies with huge sprouts. Even a moldy cabbage is waiting until it is a point to serve. Nilsson loves to experiment and has a thing for alchemy. Not in an El Bulli kind of way, but in a naturalist kind of way, without complicated machines or techniques. He used to want to be a marine biologist as a child. Maybe it’s a good thing his guests doesn’t get to see this hole from professor Nilsson. In the end it’s what comes on the plate that counts, even in the icy Wilderniss of North-Sweden, froozen in time.

How to get there

Dinner at Faviken costs about 140 euros per person and ditto for a wine selection. Staying with two costs about 225 euros, breakfast for two included. The restaurant is only open evenings from Wednesday to Saturday.

In order  to travel to Faviken, you fly in less than an hour from Stockholm to Ostersund from 120 euros, taxes included.
WWW.FLYSAS.COM

From Ostersund airport is approximately one hour to Faviken, about half an hour’s drive from the ski resort Åre. We recommend to rent a car so you can discover the stunning region of Jamtland. Sunny Cars has a solid range of rental cars during the winter months with all the extras included in the rent. From 299 euros, all inclusive rent.
WWW.SUNNYCARS.COM

The post PRESERVING THE ROOTS AT FAVIKEN first appeared on Remote Experiences.